The Buttress lies on top of The Apron, on the south side of the Rock On Gully. On the North side of the Gully is The Ultimate Everything. The Squamish Buttress route, when linked with several of the Apron routes allows for a full day of climbing to the top of the Chief. In addition to the two multi pitch routes, there are a number of hard single pitch cracks on the final headwall.
The Buttress is a nice continuation of several lines that end on the Broadway ledge, including Diedre, Snake and Rock On. The former two require walking Broadway and climbing Memorial Crack (5.) The latter ends at the top of memorial Crack.
Browse More Classics in Squamish Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Squamish Buttress:
The Squamish Butt Face 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III
Pan Tease Lower 5.10c Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade IV
The Squamish Buttress 5.10c Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III
Featured Route For Squamish Buttress
The Squamish Butt Face 5.9 International : Canada : ... : Squamish Buttress
This is a new variation to the Squamish Buttress that follows that route up to a ways below the .10c exit pitch before breaking left into the face on the gully and following ledges and crack systems up to the summit. It is getting good feedback from folks who have climbed it so far and is cleaned and well protected- should be a nice addition to the Chief's moderate summit routes.More information at Sonnie's Blog:sonnietrotter.com/2010/07/28/a-long-story-for-the-readers/...[more] Browse More Classics in International