Spyin' 'n Flyin'
||Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches
|Original: ||WI5 [details]|
|Season: ||Cody Ice|
|Page Views: ||1,961|
|Submitted By: ||Stymingersfink on Dec 26, 2007|
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Ace Welton, delicately climbing up the P2 tube sti...
This climb begins down by the river, requiring one to rap in. If the second pitch is less than secure, it may be wise to leave a fixed rope, or perhaps not even do the first two pitchs... Use your best judgement.
IIRC, it's about a 45 min hike west down the trail on the south side of the river, past the approach gullies for Moonrise etc. There will be a flat area of the drainage that this tail transects, with ice visible to the south. Hike down-drainage to the north, rapping into the riverbottom. Climb your ass back out, hike back up the drainage and continue up the three remaining steep ice steps. The WI5 tube on the final pitch should not be missed. 60m half-ropes are the minimum I would suggest. V-thread or sling vegetation and rap the route.
Screws... some small-med gear might be handy if P2 is in mixed shape.
Once the boulder is achieved, there may be one M6 ...
BETA PHOTO: The short ice-step (solo-able, so not in the pitch...
The fourth pitch, well up the canyon from where th...
BETA PHOTO: The rap into the river-bottom, from the top of P2....
From the top of P5, looking down the tube just cli...
Fourth pitch as described in Winter Dance. Feb. 0...
By Lance Colley
Feb 14, 2016
Unless you are a badass, this approach will be longer than 45 minutes after crossing the river, maybe more like an hour or hour and a half. The best way to know you are getting close to the climb is, as you look down to the right as you hike up river you will notice the river dropping away from you and eventually will be flowing through a massive box canyon with huge steep walls on both sides. You will know it when you see it.
Once you feel like you're right on top of the box canyon the trail will cut into the woods a bit into the correct drainage, there is a flat spot to drop your packs and rack up. Looking up drainage you'll be able to see the awesome Ro Sham Bo, looking down drainage you won't see ice but its down there. You can easily hike around the short 2nd pitch to rap off a tree to the base of the first pitch. The first pitch is easy WI3 but a real adventure! Don't miss it! Pitch 3 is long and fun, pitch 4 is the money pitch IMO and pitch 5 is a cool short WI4+ pillar which was very wet and drippy by the time we got to it.
Awesome climb and the approach really isn't that bad! Just a long scenic walk!