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Spyin' 'n Flyin' 

WI5

   
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Type: Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches
Consensus: WI4-5 [details]
FA: 
Season: Cody Ice
Submitted By: Stymingersfink on Dec 26, 2007

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Ace Welton, delicately climbing up the P2 tube sti...

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Description 

This climb begins down by the river, requiring one to rap in. If the second pitch is less than secure, it may be wise to leave a fixed rope, or perhaps not even do the first two pitchs... Use your best judgement.


Location 

IIRC, it's about a 45 min hike west down the trail on the south side of the river, past the approach gullies for Moonrise etc. There will be a flat area of the drainage that this tail transects, with ice visible to the south. Hike down-drainage to the north, rapping into the riverbottom. Climb your ass back out, hike back up the drainage and continue up the three remaining steep ice steps. The WI5 tube on the final pitch should not be missed. 60m half-ropes are the minimum I would suggest. V-thread or sling vegetation and rap the route.


Protection 

Screws... some small-med gear might be handy if P2 is in mixed shape.



Photos of Spyin' 'n Flyin' Slideshow Add Photo
Once the boulder is achieved, there may be one M6 move to clear it, depending on the ice coverage.

Once the boulder is achieved, there may be one M6 ...

The fourth pitch, well up the canyon from where the packs have been left at the trail crossing.

The fourth pitch, well up the canyon from where th...

From the top of P5, looking down the tube just climbed. Care should be taken prior to getting on this thing that it is secure enough to climb upon

From the top of P5, looking down the tube just cli...

The rap into the river-bottom, from the top of P2. There is a short 15' ice-step just up the drainage from here, which can be down-climbed or short-rapped.

BETA PHOTO: The rap into the river-bottom, from the top of P2....

The short ice-step (solo-able, so not in the pitch-count) during the descent to the river-bottom.

BETA PHOTO: The short ice-step (solo-able, so not in the pitch...

Fourth pitch as described in Winter Dance.  Feb. 09

Fourth pitch as described in Winter Dance. Feb. 0...