Spy Friction 

Maybe my beta was bad, but I thought this route was pretty killer. There's an extremely long reach to a sloping edge. It was powerful, dynamic, and really core-intensive to attempt, and I never stuck the move. It felt really close for me, but with a single move, it's impossible to say how close you are to sticking it. You can feel really close for a long time, and still be a long way off from making it.
It's heartening to hear that Chris, who has probably five inches of height on me couldn't stick it either. God knows what his ape is. Maybe there's a magical beta sequence out there that will allow it to happen. Or maybe it's just really really nasty. Unfortunately, the rock is fairly poor as well. So it's hard to get really psyched on it. But when it's done, it will be comparably difficult to NSP and Insectaphobe, I think. Only, 2 stars, like Insectaphobe vs. 4 stars, like NSP.