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 ADVANCED
Winter Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Drilling Experience 
Barnburner 
Barney Rubble, aka Birch Tree Crack 
Blank Man 
Chinese Freedom 
Cooler Than Ice 
Cooler Than Paradigm 
Do The Right Thing 
Foreign Affairs 
Go Between, The 
Insectaphobe 
Itch, The 
Jam and Jelly 
Jump Start 
Jump to Something Good 
Kelly's Arete 
Last Dance of a Fat Man 
Light My Fire 
Living All Over Me 
Longing for Miss Adonis 
Meet the Feebles 
Mississippi Burning 
New Kids on the Rock 
NSP 
Orange Marmalade 
Paradigm Shift 
Paul's Boutique 
Preemptive Strike 
Pretty in Pink 
PTC (Present Time Consciousness) 
Relentless 
Right Touch 
Rock Pigs 
Skooter Trash 
Soft Touch 
Spy Friction 
Squeeze Play 
Start of Something Good 
Super High Tech Jetfighter 
Toxic Art 
Vias, aka Godzilla 
Unsorted Routes:

Spy Friction 

YDS: 5.14- French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14- French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ British: E8 7a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,191
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Sep 16, 2006
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Description 

Open Project


Location 

Just around the corner from Jump Start, in between NSP and Paul's Boutique.


Protection 

Bolts



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By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Sep 29, 2010

Maybe my beta was bad, but I thought this route was pretty killer. There's an extremely long reach to a sloping edge. It was powerful, dynamic, and really core-intensive to attempt, and I never stuck the move. It felt really close for me, but with a single move, it's impossible to say how close you are to sticking it. You can feel really close for a long time, and still be a long way off from making it.
It's heartening to hear that Chris, who has probably five inches of height on me couldn't stick it either. God knows what his ape is. Maybe there's a magical beta sequence out there that will allow it to happen. Or maybe it's just really really nasty. Unfortunately, the rock is fairly poor as well. So it's hard to get really psyched on it. But when it's done, it will be comparably difficult to NSP and Insectaphobe, I think. Only, 2 stars, like Insectaphobe vs. 4 stars, like NSP.