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 ADVANCED
Winter Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Drilling Experience S 
Barnburner T 
Barney Rubble, aka Birch Tree Crack T 
Blank Man S 
Chinese Freedom S 
Cooler Than Ice S 
Cooler Than Paradigm S 
Do The Right Thing S 
Foreign Affairs S 
Go Between, The S 
Insectaphobe S 
Itch, The S 
Jam and Jelly T 
Jump Start S 
Jump to Something Good S 
Kelly's Arete S 
Last Dance of a Fat Man S 
Light My Fire S 
Living All Over Me S 
Longing for Miss Adonis S 
Meet the Feebles S 
Mississippi Burning S 
New Kids on the Rock S 
NSP S 
Orange Marmalade S 
Paradigm Shift S 
Paul's Boutique S 
Preemptive Strike S 
Pretty in Pink T,S 
PTC (Present Time Consciousness) S 
Relentless T,TR 
Right Touch S 
Rock Pigs S 
Skooter Trash S 
Soft Touch S 
Spy Friction S 
Squeeze Play S 
Start of Something Good S 
Super High Tech Jetfighter S 
Toxic Art T,S 
Vias, aka Godzilla S 
Unsorted Routes:

Spy Friction 

YDS: 5.14- French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14- French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,257
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Sep 16, 2006

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Description 

Open Project

Location 

Just around the corner from Jump Start, in between NSP and Paul's Boutique.

Protection 

Bolts


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By ferrells
Sep 29, 2010

Maybe my beta was bad, but I thought this route was pretty killer. There's an extremely long reach to a sloping edge. It was powerful, dynamic, and really core-intensive to attempt, and I never stuck the move. It felt really close for me, but with a single move, it's impossible to say how close you are to sticking it. You can feel really close for a long time, and still be a long way off from making it.
It's heartening to hear that Chris, who has probably five inches of height on me couldn't stick it either. God knows what his ape is. Maybe there's a magical beta sequence out there that will allow it to happen. Or maybe it's just really really nasty. Unfortunately, the rock is fairly poor as well. So it's hard to get really psyched on it. But when it's done, it will be comparably difficult to NSP and Insectaphobe, I think. Only, 2 stars, like Insectaphobe vs. 4 stars, like NSP.