Spuds in Space 5.8
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Hank Fisher on Jul 7, 2002 |
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Just before the anchors
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Description 50 yards farther North on the trail from Merry Maids at the top of a slippery dirt hill are three beginner (for Rifle) routes. Spuds in Space is the route on the left slightly down from the top of the hill. A good, well protected route with slightly polished/greasy holds. The crux is about 1/2 way up going over a mini-overhang. Not exactly a beginner route, but at Rifle it is as close as you are going to come. Fairly long route and probably should be done with a 60m rope just to be sure.
Protection 9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
BETA PHOTO: The old bolts that were pulled and replaced with n...
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| Comments on Spuds in Space |
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By Ken Trout From: Golden, CO Nov 20, 2007
| This used to have the worst, slippery, belay zone. But this summer, 2007, we found a nice new ledge with a retaining wall and some steps. Thanks! |
By BJ Sbarra From: Carbondale, CO Aug 22, 2010 rating: 5.9
| This was rebolted today courtesy of hardware from the ASCA. |
By E Johnson From: Boulder, CO May 22, 2012
| Thanks for the new bolts and nice belay spot. No way would I call this route well protected for anyone less than 5'9". No way would I recommend it to a new 5.8 leader. I'm not a new 5.8 leader and the runout wore me down before I got to the crux which I read is the bulge. For the clip below the bulge, I was 3 feet above my last clip and 3 feet from my next with handholds/footholds that were widely spaced and gleaming with polish, too. Delicate moves, high body tension, and a mind made of steel were going to be required to continue. By the time I'd gotten there, twice I'd had to clip bolts stretching as far as I could from a decent stance to be able to press the gate open with the bolt (in other words I couldn't hold the gate open with my thumb and still make the clip)! Nerve wracking. It doesn't need to be so scary. |
By DavidCollins From: Grand Junction, CO Oct 7, 2012
| Great route. Solid rock, nice range of moves. I don't think it's that bad for a 5.8 leader. Perhaps bolts are spaced a bit further apart than other routes in the area but moving onto the good holds for clipping keeped it OK. |
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