|Parking Lot Rock - East
This is the first sport route to the right of "Just another Pretty Face" on the East side of Parking lot rock. The climb trends right with some fun fiction moves with palming and underclings. The climb eases for a few moves. The crux is at the bulge above. It can be climbed on the left with poor feet. A fun variation goes to the right with interesting underclings. Moderate climbing leads to the anchor.
|Comments on Spud Meets Hammerhead
|By Nathan Fisher|
Sep 5, 2005
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
Very nice line. Extreme friction and lip-chewing up through the first 4 bolts. Getting above the danger zone (bolt 2) took all my inner strength. Some reachy moves gets you above bolt 4 followed by easier climbing with one cool one-finger undercling (two, if your fingers are skinnier). Then the steep face. This seemed, not quite harder per se, but difficult in it's own right, at least the initial moves with the chalked pocket that you lunge from. Maybe my technique, or ability to see the moves was lacking here. But, after this committing move, the climbing eases to some steep edging that was a nice finish for a great route.
I personally felt the crux was that entire lower face. bolts1-4
Oct 24, 2006
Thought it was more like 5.11a.
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Aug 22, 2011
It's pretty rare to get a pure friction climb that is not run-out, but that's what the first 5 bolts or so are. Really good.
From: Albion Idaho
Sep 4, 2012
Totally bonkers to lead. If you're not feeling it, climb funky bolt then tension traverse over to the chains. This route is friction dependant. NO hands and just steep feet for the first 4 bolts. Maybe you wana stick clip the second bolt to avoid a sprain or worse. With more traffic the route will polish and get even harder.