Spud Meets Hammerhead 

Very nice line. Extreme friction and lip-chewing up through the first 4 bolts. Getting above the danger zone (bolt 2) took all my inner strength. Some reachy moves gets you above bolt 4 followed by easier climbing with one cool one-finger undercling (two, if your fingers are skinnier). Then the steep face. This seemed, not quite harder per se, but difficult in it's own right, at least the initial moves with the chalked pocket that you lunge from. Maybe my technique, or ability to see the moves was lacking here. But, after this committing move, the climbing eases to some steep edging that was a nice finish for a great route.

I personally felt the crux was that entire lower face. bolts1-4

Thought it was more like 5.11a.

It's pretty rare to get a pure friction climb that is not run-out, but that's what the first 5 bolts or so are. Really good.

Totally bonkers to lead. If you're not feeling it, climb funky bolt then tension traverse over to the chains. This route is friction dependant. NO hands and just steep feet for the first 4 bolts. Maybe you wana stick clip the second bolt to avoid a sprain or worse. With more traffic the route will polish and get even harder.