|The Pipe Dream
This is a great route, one of the easiest that climbs out of the pipedream proper. Some call it 13a/b on the basis that it consists of so many taxing moves.
Starts out on some 11b that feels more like 5.10 up to the massive roof, skip the draw before the chains wiggle into a double kneebar hands off rest, clip the next draw rest then proceed. The next 6-7 draws consists of 2-3 finger pocket pulling at a steep angle moving right into eventually less steep terrain. Get a right kneebar master some trickery and then pull 5-6 more draws of 12- to the chains.
Feels similar in length and angle to pump-o-rama in rifle. It even shares the same crux move, a right kneebar reach move off of crimps.
to the right of toxic turkey in the right hand sector of the cave
17 fixed draws and anchors
The Steep part of Sprout
Fighting the pump through the middle moves on Spro...
snapshot from directly under the route
Tim H getting the kneebar rest, and the RP!
From: Golden, CO
Sep 7, 2009
fun, but there is about a dozen drilled pockets on this one...
Jun 8, 2010
I dont know about the drilled pockets.... The climb is great, but I would not call the top 12-. Its 11b at the hardest... if even. After you pull the lip, you climb jugs the whole way to the anchors... with kneebar rests and heelhooks to get it all back. If you get to the lip you won't fall.
Jun 28, 2010
A right-hand jug broke off at the crux creating a more difficult and technical crux sequence. Could possibly change the grade?
|By Joe Collins|
Jul 14, 2010
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c
The headwall is every bit of 5.12. You most certainly can pump out after pulling the lip... I know from experience.
Despite the multiple drilled/enhanced pockets, this along with Pump-o-Rama at Rifle is one of the great 13-minus endurance testpieces. With the broken hold, this thing could warrant an upgrade... its definitely harder than it was before.