|Dark Star Gully
Climb up the loose trail throught the thorns, poison ivy? (I'll let you know in a day or two), and slippery packed dirt. On your right, near the head of the gully, is a glassy face up a couple of ledges. This is down gully from the 2 steep bolted lines. This is the bolted route on the left of the glassy face. Scramble up to the 1st ledge and enjoy the face. Steep, but with well-spaced good holds. Find your holds, work the feet, and make the necessary reaches. Too short a climb and with too many ledges for anything but 1 star, but good for a short climb.
3 draws for the climb, 2 more for the chains, and I used a .75 camalot to protect the initial moves, but it wasn't totally necessary.
BETA PHOTO: The Springs w/o lines
Enjoying the climb after not enjoying the hike.
BETA PHOTO: 1) Spring Into Action 2) Spring Fling
One more move.
|By Lee Gitlin|
Jun 29, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
This route has more going for it than it's little brother, Spring Fling. If you have good contact strength, the arete has plenty of holds. More positive options exist slightly right of the bolt line, though the holds are fewer. Some tough strength moves below the anchor chains make for a surprisingly sustained line, given the route's relatively short length. Be careful lowering/rapping into a tree at the base of the route.