The short, right-leaning, off-set, off-sized, splitter crack. The crux is hanging on and placing gear for the first 15 feet. Make it through the start and the climbing eases, surmounts a pillar, and then traverse left past an inobvious but easy slab into a different crack/groove system. The chain anchors are just above at a stance.
Originally rated 5.10 by a couple of guys who had no idea how good they were.
The first 15 feet offer some of the hardest crack climbing in LCC. Not a handbag.
This route is located on the side of the Thumb, up and right from the starts of the standard Thumb routes. (S-crack, etc.) You can scramble up the 5th class gully to the right of the Standard Thumb starts for about 150 vertical feet or so. After the gully scramble, on the wall to your left you'll see a short attractive splitter to a right-leaning flare- this is Spring and Fall.
Cams- (3).75 green camalots, (2).5 purple camalots, (1)red camalot, and sling on a small finger sized cam to protect the traverse. Draws for the chains.
We were psyched to try this one, until we got on i...
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jul 27, 2012
Wicked hard. Don't even bother trying this one unless you have the .5-.75 stacks dialed. I sure don't. The Lcc lean makes this one relentless and the offset doesn't help matters. The slab move reach across at the top above your gear is exciting.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Apr 26, 2013
I've always heard this is more like 12a.