This is far and away the best route in the Arsenal and one of the best sport climbs anywhere. Overhanging 45 feet in 80 with multiple cruxes but no holds smaller than half a pad, this stunning line defines endurance climbing.
While some have climbed this route with a kneescum below the crux and down-rated it to 13b, I'd say it's an honest 13c without the scum.
This route is in the left-center of the Arsenal and starts on the far right side of the long, dirty ledge which runs all the way to Pretty Hate Machine. It has in-situ chain draws and an obvious lunge move to a well-chalked hole at the 5th bolt.
Lean out from the ledge, power up past pockets and fire the lunge (a long reach for tall people). Wickedly steep climbing on ultra-kind jugs leads to the Arapiles bulge, a prelude to the crux. Step up, shake out (kneescum if you must) and punch it out the smooth, white bulge on crimpers. There is potential for some spectacular air if you blow it at the top of the sequence, but the fall is totally clean. Stand up into a bowl, shake out one last time then engage with a tricky finishing sequence en route to the anchors.
1 or 2 quickdraws for the bottom bolts. The rest of the route is fixed.
Beginning up the long pumpy journey of Sprayathon.
Photo by James Lucas.
|By Blake Cash|
Apr 7, 2010
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- E7 7a
I ignored the "kneescum" at the rest below the crux for quite a few attempts, because I heard it was awkward and hard to get and not that restful. But as the season came to a close last fall and I was presented with a final day of freezing temps as my last day to climb this route, I donned a right knee pad and realized that this is no scum, but a full on "almost" no hands below the crux. It's silly not to take this. There's a bit of body English involved in the knee bar, but like all of them, once you get it right, you'll get it all back.
|By Colin Lantz|
From: Nederland, CO
Jul 27, 2012
I think the FA was summer 1993. It was obvious from the get-go that this one was going to be a classic. The stone quality is impeccable and the moves were enjoyable but challenging. The best route in The Arsenal IMO.