Start in the same place as the Dark Art then head left following the bolts. The only real danger is halfway through - there is serious back slapping potential with the spray boulder. Bring a pad and have a good belayer and you should be fine.
|By Micah Holt|
From: Colorado Springs/Greeley, CO
Mar 16, 2009
Some biatch stole my draws off this climb two summers ago. so dont leave your draws up, someone will inevitably steal them and break your heart :.(
|By Hank Caylor|
From: Golden, CO
Mar 24, 2009
The discussion on draw thievery is much more interesting than Scott's route description.
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 25, 2009
Ben, I've never seen you mad. While I agree that taking fixed gear is wrong, I don't think you have it in you to hurt someone. Just my impression, besides with a Doc for a father aren't you supposed to be into healing. I see that the college climbing program has started up in CO and other states.
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 30, 2009
Yeah, we saw Ben this weekend since we just did our comp for the college series. What is climbing well is relative, but yes right now my health is good and I'm able to get out climbing with our 1 1/2 year old and a friend during the week, but moving around is more complicated so we tend to just go to something and work on it rather than moving around a bunch and trying to get a lot done. Mostly though it is that my fingers have not been giving me trouble lately, though the shoulders are starting to pay for it.
I'd like to get back to some areas around the Springs and finish up some things that I had tried but could not do previously.
As far as fixing draws. It is a great sevice to the community on steeper routes such as Spray, Dark Art and Spew, however if I recall correctly, the cliff is visible from the road? Which could lead to someone feeling that fixed gear is an eyesore. No I know that there are lots of areas such as the Arsenal at Rifle where there are loads of fixed draws and obviously visible from the road, but there are other areas where this would never be tolerated. I'm not saying the draws should or should not be fixed and certainly if someone is going to remove fixed draws the least they could do is leave them at the start of the route so the owner could reclaim them. Another option might be to fix something more permenant by using a quick link if you were not already and chain or a swaged cable draw. If the culprit is taking the gear for their own use which is the other possiblity it would be less likely to happen if the gear was not something that was useful except as fixed (chain would be cheaper, swaged draws run about $10 a pop).
|By Ian Spencer-Green|
Jul 14, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
I left a fair of amount of draws hanging on the Spray Wall in the old days when I was working on routes. I too would have been pissed as hell if someone stole them! Thievery has no place at the local crag. BS! Concerning the grade, when I cranked the FFA third try, there's no way I thought it harder than .13b. Also "Spray" was bolted by local Darryl Roth. It sat as a project for some 5+ years before my FFA.