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Spotting at the Gym

Original Post
Nick Fatseas · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2011 · Points: 65

Why does a person bouldering at the gym need a spotter when there is 18" of foam padding to break any sort of fall that may occur?

In most cases, it appears to be a concerned boyfriend showing a display of heroism as if it is some sort of virtuous declare of his love for his significant other who is trying to pull a crux move on a boulder route 4 feet above fluffy padding.

This of course is one of the lowest concerns in our country right now, but:

Is it necessary to spot a boulderer at a climbing gym?

Rob Gordon · · Hollywood, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 115

People break legs at the gym fairly commonly, and I've even heard of a death that occurred when someone dynoed, caught their foot on a edge when they landed and busted their head open. In that case I believe the people next to him were just standing there and a simple 1 hand spot could have saved the guy's life. Second hand story but I believe it.

Stonyman Killough · · Alabama · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 5,785

Always spot. Ankles are hard to come by.

JesseT · · Portland, OR · Joined May 2011 · Points: 100

The bouldering gym isn't just a place to practice bouldering. It's also a great place to practice your spotting for bouldering outdoors. Bring a towel, pretend it's a crash pad. Try to put it in the most likely fall locations. Make sure the climber lands safely on the towel. Great practice in a low-consequence environment.

You do look like a dork dragging a towel around the gym floor, but hey, safety first.

Nick Fatseas · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2011 · Points: 65

Okay - those points make sense to me. Thanks for the new perspectives.

Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485

I have 2 bad ankles. One was done in at a gym onto a big ass pad. I appreciate having a spotter.

berl · · Seattle · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 25

it's less about what they'll land on and more about how they land on it. seams between pads, portable pads on top of padded floors, awkward rotating falls and unaware fallers can all lead to serious injury. Also, in new-school bouldering gyms there is the potential for a lot more than a 4' fall... One gym here in portland could probably send you for a 14' tumbler before hitting the pads if you somehow screwed up the exit from one of the topout slabs.

Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90

I think that the bigger concern most of the time is that a lot of people that climb indoors don't know how to use the flooring that is in place to their advantage when falling. I've seen some pretty good broken/dislocated ankles that could probably have been avoided or at least significantly lessened had the person just rolled out of the fall.

I want to climb at the gyms you're hitting. Most of the places I boulder indoors don't have 18" of flooring... or at least not good flooring.

Arnold Braker · · golden, co · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 280

In most cases, it appears to be a concerned boyfriend showing a display of heroism as if it is some sort of virtuous declare of his love for his significant other who...

Actually, it's usually some guy trying to become her significant other...

Nick Fatseas wrote:Is it necessary to spot a boulderer at a climbing gym?
Almost never.
Nrmill261 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 5

It is also to prevent the climber from landing on their noggin.

Alex Swan · · West · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 25

Along with what has already been said..

Spotting is a sport in it's own right. May as well 'practice' for the real deal

Dr. Ellis D. Funnythoughts · · Evergreen, Co · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 125

my girlfriend tore her acl while traversing 10inches off the ground. hold spun and she tried to correct her position then POP. she always says it was her fault but still cant help but think i should have been spotting. Shit happens, have a spotter.

Jake D. · · Northeast · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 365

depends.. sometimes i'd rather not have a spot and be able to roll out of it. other times id rather get spotted if i think i'm going to come off funny. i usually ask when i want a spot.

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

Even with three feet of padding, I would rather not fall onto my neck and risk snapping it. Also, there are plenty of times when an awkward fall could put your head back into the wall. I guess from starting bouldering before crash pads makes me more aware, but I see a lot of people standing around slackjawed when they should be giving their buddy an attentive spot. It is like they have no idea of the ramifications of being hurt, potentially seriously. In a gym part of spotting can also be making sure some little kid doesn't run underneath the climber and get flattened.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

i know 3 people who have torn ACL's/MCL's bouldering in the gym. not sure why the spotting thing bothers you so much?

Eamon Doyle · · Sierra Madre, CA · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 5

I had a friend how came very close to breaking his nose because he lost his balance on a landing and almost brought his face down onto his knee. It might have been less close with a spotter. Either way, having a spotter is nice even if just so I don't land on my butt when I fall.

Eamon

Joshinator · · Longmont, Colorado · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 45

My climbing partner Tom, who is 61, actually broke his leg bouldering in the gym. He really appreciates having a spotter these days. I appreciate it as well. Really, it is never a bad idea and it isn't a big deal. If you don't think you need a spotter-great, but I mean, don't judge other people who are looking out for their friends.

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

I spot people in the gym when there is a chance that they could land on their neck, back or head. Doing so from even four feet could be catastrophic.

Holds spin and sometimes break. It's happened to me more than once and I climb at good gyms.

Forestvonsinkafinger · · Iowa · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,090
Jake D. wrote:depends.. sometimes i'd rather not have a spot and be able to roll out of it. other times id rather get spotted if i think i'm going to come off funny. i usually ask when i want a spot.
+1

2. Spotting is good practice, it is challenging to place the pad right AND direct a fall right. Anyone have good beta on spotting?
3. At our gym there have been no Top-rope injuries, and there have been many ACL and ankle injuries from bouldering, mostly from high-ball no-spotter situations.
Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,759

I was spotting a short female climbing partner who was leading a cave route when she fell attempting to clip the first bolt. That isn't a huge fall for most people, but it was for her. I tapped her shoulders just hard enough to do a billiard ball collision: she ended standing upright and a little bewildered while I landed flat on my back. [note: I wouldn't have done that if I were over dirt/rocks.]

Noah Doherty · · Nashua, NH · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 200

My sister got a concussion because a guy fell on her. Spotters would have prevented this. I feel like an idiot.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Bouldering
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