This is a fun climb. It begins out of a little pod on the left side of the crag. Climb up the wide crack left side in. Keep palming, smearing, back-stepping, and heal-toeing for what seems like forever (60M on the button). There is usually a good smear, or pebble out on the face every once in a while for a good rest, and good progression. The crux is probably in the beginning of the wide-ness, and/or the sustained nature of the climb.
Walk to the climber's right from the top to a gully(60-70??). Scramble 40 feet to the chockstones, these chockstones are at the top of the climb Cruiser, and South Side Johnny. Rappel to back to boulder hopping with one rope from a slung chockstone.
The guidebook says pro to 4 inches. That would build an anchor at the top of the climb, but, be useless except for one placement. This climb is 200 feet of non-stop wide crack (10-24 inches or so). Long pants, and long sleeved shirt nice.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 14, 2003
What do you mean here regarding pro? You can only get one piece of pro the entire pitch? Doesn't sound like even a #4 big bro would fit.
|By Joe Keyser|
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Oct 15, 2003
George, It is quite wide for the vast majority. At about maybe 40- 60 (?) feet somewhere, you can get a small cam (0.5, or 0.75 cam in a crack on the face behind you as you are climbing). It's a fun climb in a scenic area. We thought we were on "Prairie Dog Crematorium" until we got another look at the topo.