Sport/Mixed Climbing Near 313 Turnoff 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Irby, Hickok |
| Submitted By: | Joel Hickok on Mar 8, 2012 |
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Location Turn at 313 and cross the rail tracks. If you park at the paved pullout where the information site is and then x-country over to the Cutler band below the talus slope, there are a couple routes. Don't remember if we ever got around to really naming these routes. Short approach. Not really chossy but possibly grainy and a little sandy in some sections. We didn't have to clean this up too much at all on the FAs.
SORRY the info here is so minimal. I can't remember details, had no photos, and will probably expand this sometime (maybe).
Description Climb 1: Primarily face climbing past a few bolts leads to a short crack finish (fingers and hands). Single rope. 5.10d (FA: P Irby, Hickok)
Climb 2: Face climbing up to and then across a crack(slot?). Continue up to a crux move at a small bulge. Single rope. 5.11- (FA: J Hickok, Irby)
Protection Climb 1: Mixed. Bring a few finger to hand pieces.
Climb 2: Bolted line.
| Comments on Sport/Mixed Climbing Near 313 Turnoff |
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By jakobi
From: moab, utah
Mar 9, 2012
| Joel, If I remember correctly you were calling this crag the Witches Tongue? |
By Joel Hickok
Mar 19, 2012
| Hmmm... maybe Paul was calling it Witches Tongue? I don't recall that name, but then again my memory can be fuzzy. Maybe there should be a separate area for this instead of adding it as a route, and then the two routes can be subdivided. I'll talk about it with Paul sometime, but it may not be worth it right now unless there are other routes to add. |
By Stewart M. Green
Apr 12, 2012
| I climbed here once with Jimmie Dunn in the early 1990s. When he lived in Moab then, he climbed a bunch of the cracks on that Cutler outcrop and used to come and do laps on the best ones. |
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