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Yin and Yang Cliff
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Sport Wanker Extraordinaire 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Roxanna Brock, 2000
Page Views: 1,176
Submitted By: Andy Hansen on Oct 30, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

On the west side of the Yin & Yang cliff is an obvious splitter offwidth roof crack. It is a beastly climb that will have your attention from start to finish. Tape up. The crux is the first 20 feet fist stacking and foot camming through the roof.

Protection 

#4, #5, #6 Camalots x2


Photos of Sport Wanker Extraordinaire Slideshow Add Photo
Hand stacks will bring you only a fleeting sense of security.
Hand stacks will bring you only a fleeting sense o...
This climb is a LOT of fun
This climb is a LOT of fun

Comments on Sport Wanker Extraordinaire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Cultivating Mass
Oct 31, 2011

Nice, dude. Someone actually did this thing! Respect. Gave it a halfhearted go in shorts once, didn't last long. Might have to get up there and give er another try!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Oct 31, 2011

I'll post photos soon. Wear jeans and a long sleeve or give blood. This is a pretty burly route and keeps your attention at the top because it's quite crumbly. Definitely worth it though
By Cultivating Mass
Nov 2, 2011

Yeah, the attempt I made was with one 5" cam and a pair of shorts, I walked away when my knee started to give up blood. Look forward to the pics-been so long since I looked at this one, I'd almost forgotten it was there!
By Tradoholic
Nov 2, 2011

Done by a bunch of top ropers from WI! Seek and destroy sport wankers Andy!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Aug 21, 2012

After thinking about the grade of this one for a while, I don't really think 5.11+ is accurate. I think 5.11 is good.
By Matt Kuehl
From: the desert
Nov 30, 2012

I think you gotta send before you can downgrade my friend!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Dec 1, 2012

Not if I'm downgrading from the comfort of my couch!