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L to R R to L Alpha
70' west facing cliff. Excellent rock with some large roofs. The sport routes here are spicy and many of them require a piece or two of gear. Somehow Ken Nichols was able to find 40 routes on this small cliff, most people only climb the 15 or so bolted routes that have been added down below in some line drawings/topos.
Park at Crescent Lake Park, but a $25 annual parking pass is required, the parking lot is small (about 30 spaces), is shared by resident park users, and it is USUALLY gated between 5pm and 7am. Parking passes are sold at the Southington town hall (parks and rec. dept. - basement) during normal business hours. If you park there, hike east along the shore of the reservoir, then up to the crag. The gate closes at different times during the year so pay attention to the posted signs and dont be late getting out of there or you may have a long walk home.
17 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Sport Routes
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sport Routes:
Fresh Bag 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Sport
Unnamed 5.9 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Firecracker (New) 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Burnt Beyond Recognition (Mixed) 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport
Optimus Prime 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 55'
OC Roof 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Featured Route For Sport Routes
Iron Sheik 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c CT : Central CT : ... : Sport Routes
This route tackles the largest and steepest section of roof. Move up a faint corner to some jugs. Then crimp and undercling your way out to make a big move out to a jug. Once you get the jug let your feet out and hold a crazy swing. Then go left making one more big move and finish left of the arete on a set of anchors. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CT
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