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Sport routes in metrowest MA/ NE CT?
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By MRock
Jul 11, 2013
Split shin after 5.9+ R lead

Traveling back to see the parents and friends for 13 days. Bringing my rope and draws. Gonna be staying in revere, ma, Millis, ma and stafford, ct. Looking for sport routes up to 5.10+. Seems like most places are TR or trad. Which I'm fine with too, I'll just stock up on some static line. But I would love to clip some bolts with some old friends. Any advice? Thanks in advance.


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By josh villeneuve
From Enfield, CT
Jul 11, 2013

Farley ledge, Mormon hollow, Rose Ledge, Not much quality in CT other than Fire wall and Ragged Mountain


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By The Phoenix
Jul 11, 2013
The Phoenix

josh villeneuve wrote:
Farley ledge, Mormon hollow, Rose Ledge, Not much quality in CT other than Fire wall and Ragged Mountain


Not sure if you're just trying to mislead him but there's plenty of high quality climbing in CT. If all you've been to are those two crags you got a lot of stuff left to check out. I would recommend using the advanced search tool here on this site for sport routes in CT and you will find some of the published routes. Despite what josh wrote above, Chatfield Hollow has amazing rock and some incredible routes, IMO the best sport climbing in the state on the whole.


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By Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Jul 11, 2013

Although nothing too extensive, there is some decent sport climbing in CT at Chatfield Hollow, Bear Rock, Pine Ledge, and FireWall See: the April Rock and Ice article. Most of the sport climbing is not on Mountain Project. For beta: www.climbri.com/CT-Sport-Guide.htm


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By Eric8
From Framingham
Jul 11, 2013

Would not exactly called chatfield hallow NE CT more like southern...


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Jul 11, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

firewall is craprock. then again so is most of ct.


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By Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Jul 11, 2013

Eric8 wrote:
Would not exactly called chatfield hallow NE CT more like southern...


According to Google Maps from Stafford, CT to Chatfield Hollow is 62 miles and Farley is 55. Not a heck of a lot of difference. The other places I mention are closer. You have to drive a bit to get to sport climbing in New England. Rumney is 183 miles.


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By Nick Votto
Jul 11, 2013
Bolton, VT

If your limit is 5.10+ I wouldn't even bother with Chatfield as most of the bolted stuff is hard, and really there isn't much. Firewall would be worth a day but that's it, climbing hard on traprock in the heat is awful. Head up to Farley or go to East Peak and set up some top ropes later in the day (shade).


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By Nick Votto
Jul 11, 2013
Bolton, VT

And watch out for deer ticks! They're everywhere, avoid brush and check your legs...


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By Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Jul 11, 2013

Nick Votto wrote:
If your limit is 5.10+ I wouldn't even bother with Chatfield...


Good warning on Chatfield. I little known area that I think has some really fun routes on solid rock is Pine Ledge in Deep River. Most of the routes there are in the 5.9-5.10 range. It is also fairly well shaded.


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By josh villeneuve
From Enfield, CT
Jul 11, 2013

The Phoenix wrote:
Not sure if you're just trying to mislead him but there's plenty of high quality climbing in CT. If all you've been to are those two crags you got a lot of stuff left to check out. I would recommend using the advanced search tool here on this site for sport routes in CT and you will find some of the published routes. Despite what josh wrote above, Chatfield Hollow has amazing rock and some incredible routes, IMO the best sport climbing in the state on the whole.



Oops...I totally forgot about Chatfield, Sweet Crag!!! I've done a decent amount in CT but seriously we don't have much.


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jul 11, 2013
Stoked...

josh villeneuve wrote:
Oops...I totally forgot about Chatfield, Sweet Crag!!! I've done a decent amount in CT but seriously we don't have much.


We have WAY more then you think... No lack of rock, only partners and time.


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By josh villeneuve
From Enfield, CT
Jul 11, 2013

CaptainMo wrote:
We have WAY more then you think... No lack of rock, only partners and time.


Well then...I move back in August, show me around my Master! Besides I have to make it up to you for breaking holds off your climb at Chatfield hahaha


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jul 11, 2013
Stoked...

josh villeneuve wrote:
Well then...I move back in August, show me around my Master! Besides I have to make it up to you for breaking holds off your climb at Chatfield hahaha



haha... Deal! There's some serious developing to do this fall in CT.


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By MRock
Jul 12, 2013
Split shin after 5.9+ R lead

Thanks for the beta dudes. Looks like Rumney might be in the cards, my mother is letting me borrow her prius... Can't wait!


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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Jul 12, 2013
Rumney

MRock wrote:
my mother is letting me borrow her prius...


Always wonder what demographic bought those things. :p


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