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Sport routes in metrowest MA/ NE CT?
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Jul 11, 2013
Split shin after 5.9+ R lead
Traveling back to see the parents and friends for 13 days. Bringing my rope and draws. Gonna be staying in revere, ma, Millis, ma and stafford, ct. Looking for sport routes up to 5.10+. Seems like most places are TR or trad. Which I'm fine with too, I'll just stock up on some static line. But I would love to clip some bolts with some old friends. Any advice? Thanks in advance. MRock
Joined Apr 10, 2013
17 points
Jul 11, 2013
Farley ledge, Mormon hollow, Rose Ledge, Not much quality in CT other than Fire wall and Ragged Mountain josh villeneuve
From Enfield, CT
Joined Oct 4, 2010
206 points
Jul 11, 2013
The Phoenix
josh villeneuve wrote:
Farley ledge, Mormon hollow, Rose Ledge, Not much quality in CT other than Fire wall and Ragged Mountain


Not sure if you're just trying to mislead him but there's plenty of high quality climbing in CT. If all you've been to are those two crags you got a lot of stuff left to check out. I would recommend using the advanced search tool here on this site for sport routes in CT and you will find some of the published routes. Despite what josh wrote above, Chatfield Hollow has amazing rock and some incredible routes, IMO the best sport climbing in the state on the whole.
The Phoenix
Joined Apr 23, 2013
114 points
Jul 11, 2013
Eiger summit
Although nothing too extensive, there is some decent sport climbing in CT at Chatfield Hollow, Bear Rock, Pine Ledge, and FireWall See: the April Rock and Ice article. Most of the sport climbing is not on Mountain Project. For beta: climbri.com/CT-Sport-Guide.htm Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Joined Sep 27, 2001
647 points
Jul 11, 2013
Would not exactly called chatfield hallow NE CT more like southern... Eric8
From Framingham
Joined Nov 2, 2007
293 points
Jul 11, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
firewall is craprock. then again so is most of ct. superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
Jul 11, 2013
Eiger summit
Eric8 wrote:
Would not exactly called chatfield hallow NE CT more like southern...


According to Google Maps from Stafford, CT to Chatfield Hollow is 62 miles and Farley is 55. Not a heck of a lot of difference. The other places I mention are closer. You have to drive a bit to get to sport climbing in New England. Rumney is 183 miles.
Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Joined Sep 27, 2001
647 points
Jul 11, 2013
Bolton, VT
If your limit is 5.10+ I wouldn't even bother with Chatfield as most of the bolted stuff is hard, and really there isn't much. Firewall would be worth a day but that's it, climbing hard on traprock in the heat is awful. Head up to Farley or go to East Peak and set up some top ropes later in the day (shade). Nick Votto
Joined Jul 27, 2008
276 points
Jul 11, 2013
Bolton, VT
And watch out for deer ticks! They're everywhere, avoid brush and check your legs... Nick Votto
Joined Jul 27, 2008
276 points
Jul 11, 2013
Eiger summit
Nick Votto wrote:
If your limit is 5.10+ I wouldn't even bother with Chatfield...


Good warning on Chatfield. I little known area that I think has some really fun routes on solid rock is Pine Ledge in Deep River. Most of the routes there are in the 5.9-5.10 range. It is also fairly well shaded.
Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Joined Sep 27, 2001
647 points
Jul 11, 2013
The Phoenix wrote:
Not sure if you're just trying to mislead him but there's plenty of high quality climbing in CT. If all you've been to are those two crags you got a lot of stuff left to check out. I would recommend using the advanced search tool here on this site for sport routes in CT and you will find some of the published routes. Despite what josh wrote above, Chatfield Hollow has amazing rock and some incredible routes, IMO the best sport climbing in the state on the whole.



Oops...I totally forgot about Chatfield, Sweet Crag!!! I've done a decent amount in CT but seriously we don't have much.
josh villeneuve
From Enfield, CT
Joined Oct 4, 2010
206 points
Administrator
Jul 11, 2013
A Very Not Snowy Christmas...
josh villeneuve wrote:
Oops...I totally forgot about Chatfield, Sweet Crag!!! I've done a decent amount in CT but seriously we don't have much.


We have WAY more then you think... No lack of rock, only partners and time.
Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,419 points
Jul 11, 2013
CaptainMo wrote:
We have WAY more then you think... No lack of rock, only partners and time.


Well then...I move back in August, show me around my Master! Besides I have to make it up to you for breaking holds off your climb at Chatfield hahaha
josh villeneuve
From Enfield, CT
Joined Oct 4, 2010
206 points
Administrator
Jul 11, 2013
A Very Not Snowy Christmas...
josh villeneuve wrote:
Well then...I move back in August, show me around my Master! Besides I have to make it up to you for breaking holds off your climb at Chatfield hahaha



haha... Deal! There's some serious developing to do this fall in CT.
Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,419 points
Jul 12, 2013
Split shin after 5.9+ R lead
Thanks for the beta dudes. Looks like Rumney might be in the cards, my mother is letting me borrow her prius... Can't wait! MRock
Joined Apr 10, 2013
17 points
Jul 12, 2013
Rumney
MRock wrote:
my mother is letting me borrow her prius...


Always wonder what demographic bought those things. :p
Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Joined Jul 10, 2010
1,490 points


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