|Type:||Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Beth Bennet, Stuart Rtichey, Jeroen Vanwolferen, Ken & Marsha Trout, 2013|
|Submitted By:||Ken Trout on Mar 14, 2013|
|Comments on Sport Dike||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Aug 3, 2013
Above this pitch is potential for a second pitch. It is a thin, right-angling dike/seam.
There are anchors on the ledge immediately above the seam.
I put the anchors in a few years ago intending to work the moves and eventually free this line. Since the day the bolts went in in 2008, I have gotten on the route two times. I really don't have the time or inclination to do it. I am declaring this an open project to anyone who thinks it's worth their time and hardware (hell, I'll supply the hardware).
I think if you aggressively clean it, then spend a bunch of time accidentally popping more crystals, have tougher toes than mine, and aren't easily discouraged, it'll probably go. I bet it'll be 6-8 bolts.
A note on the anchor: it's in a great spot for TR. I don't believe the route is actually going to finish there. There are features that could lead this thing either right or left. Straight up isn't terribly logical or aesthetic. Move the anchor hangers and quicklinks if you find a better path.
I think this is probably mid 5.13 but may be easier if some of the crumblies leave a real edge behind. Pretty cool since it's less than vertical and somehow not slab climbing.
By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
Jul 24, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fun little route, but I gotta go with PG-13.
Watch yourself on the first two clips; you'll take a nasty grounder for sure if you blow either clip. For me, the second clip was the hardest clip on the route....
By ANGUS WIESSNER
From: Denver Colorad
Aug 28, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
|I added a direct start to this that maybe bumps it up to 11. I love this route now seven bolts!!!|