|Lincoln Lake Slabs
This is a short route up a vertical, aplitic dike that ends when the holds disappear. Several very good climbers have tried to continue the line but no luck. The direct finish will be much harder and probably end up cutting right quite a bit.
The route starts with a low bolt on the slab a few feet right of Jabba. Climb past six bolts up a dike. The crux is making the third clip and moving past. There is a double bolt anchor with mussy hooks.
There is no need for an expensive trad rack on this. You need six quickdraws and maybe a cam to protect reaching the second bolt.
Lincoln Lake route summary
| || Sport Dike neighborhood. |
Aug 3, 2013
Above this pitch is potential for a second pitch. It is a thin, right-angling dike/seam.
There are anchors on the ledge immediately above the seam.
I put the anchors in a few years ago intending to work the moves and eventually free this line. Since the day the bolts went in in 2008, I have gotten on the route two times. I really don't have the time or inclination to do it. I am declaring this an open project to anyone who thinks it's worth their time and hardware (hell, I'll supply the hardware).
I think if you aggressively clean it, then spend a bunch of time accidentally popping more crystals, have tougher toes than mine, and aren't easily discouraged, it'll probably go. I bet it'll be 6-8 bolts.
A note on the anchor: it's in a great spot for TR. I don't believe the route is actually going to finish there. There are features that could lead this thing either right or left. Straight up isn't terribly logical or aesthetic. Move the anchor hangers and quicklinks if you find a better path.
I think this is probably mid 5.13 but may be easier if some of the crumblies leave a real edge behind. Pretty cool since it's less than vertical and somehow not slab climbing.
|By Kirk Miller|
From: Golden, CO
Jul 24, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fun little route, but I gotta go with PG-13.
Watch yourself on the first two clips; you'll take a nasty grounder for sure if you blow either clip. For me, the second clip was the hardest clip on the route....