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Sport climbing in August in Europe
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By Aimee Rose
From Bend, or
Jan 1, 2011
The crux.  Photo by Nathan Gerhardt

Hi-
Just wanted to see if anyone knew of a good place to sport climb in August in Europe. My husband and I climb 7c to 8c and like steep rock. It would be ideal if the area was kid friendly. At the moment we're thinking of Gorge du Loup or Gorge du Tarn. I also heard of an area in eastern France (near the Swiss border) called Baume du Yen (or something like that). I can't find any info online though.

Thanks in advance for any suggestion.


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By Verto
From Madrid
Jan 4, 2011

What about Spain?

La Pedriza, Montserrat, Patones, El chorro .... Costa blanca ....


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By Aimee Rose
From Bend, or
Jan 4, 2011
The crux.  Photo by Nathan Gerhardt

I think Spain would be way too hot. We were in Costa Blanca in the beginning of June and it was too hot to climb hard. Do you know of any cooler sport climbing?


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By Dusty
From Fort Collins
Jan 4, 2011
just teasin' the sharks...

CEUSE!!!


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By Brian in SLC
Jan 4, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

In France, there's a few spots in the Vercors that might be doable in August. Kid friendly, too. Lans-en-Vercors, Corrençon, a few spots outside of Grenoble (huge pile of climbing there). Some info on this site for some of that stuff.

Local climber's website for browsing:

www.gdargaud.net/Climbing/

Maybe the Chartreuse?

I'd suggest Sainte Baume near Aix but its probably fairly warm there in August. Orpierre too?

In Italy, some good spots in the Dolomites (Cinque Torre and near Canazei) that would be fairly kid friendly. I'd think Arco might be too warm too.

Huge pile of info (in general) here:

www.worldtopo.com/

Cheers and good luck!


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By Jeffrey Bauer
Jan 4, 2011

Check out Stewart Greens rock climbing europe, its a great resource!


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By yevquest
From Southeast,US
Jan 4, 2011

Check out Tournoux near Briancon. Not huge but really cool.


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By Verto
From Madrid
Jan 6, 2011

Aimee Rose wrote:
I think Spain would be way too hot. We were in Costa Blanca in the beginning of June and it was too hot to climb hard. Do you know of any cooler sport climbing?


Well here in Spain in Summer ...... sport climbing mainly ..... cooler place than white coast ... it´s dificult to find. May be Pedriza (Madrid, or small places in the North. Pyrinees mainly.

Perhaps Dent D´orlu in Pyrinees ... long routes (several pitches), different leves and I think that you´ll find bolts on almost all the routes.

There is one, pilier sud, 1000 mts 6a+ at the south face. Or another place in France ....

(Sorry about my english, I´m learning step by step)


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By air2mud
Jan 16, 2011

Yup! I highly recommend you make your way to Nuremberg, Germany. The town is amazing in itself and is known as the toy capital of Europe, so thats a great start for the kids.

Then by taxi, rental car or best yet a train (ask for the Bavarian Family pass) make your way into any of the small towns in the 'Frankenjurra'. Here you will find tons of sport climbing w/ all sorts of skill levels. Most of it is very accessible.

Recommend you look into the books Frankenjurra Band 1 and Band 2 from Amazon.de to get you started. You can also google it and find the topos from coronn.com. You can download them for free, but I would recommend paying the 4 euro (roughly 5.5 dollars) to help out the site and ensure future development.

I live about 20 minutes away from the South East portion of the Frankenjura -- however, I just recently started climbing since I had to ditch my previous hobbies when I made the move here.

Hope thats a help.


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