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Sport climbing in August in Europe
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Jan 1, 2011
The crux.  Photo by Nathan Gerhardt
Hi-
Just wanted to see if anyone knew of a good place to sport climb in August in Europe. My husband and I climb 7c to 8c and like steep rock. It would be ideal if the area was kid friendly. At the moment we're thinking of Gorge du Loup or Gorge du Tarn. I also heard of an area in eastern France (near the Swiss border) called Baume du Yen (or something like that). I can't find any info online though.

Thanks in advance for any suggestion.
Aimee Rose
From Bend, or
Joined Mar 23, 2006
1,704 points
Jan 4, 2011
What about Spain?

La Pedriza, Montserrat, Patones, El chorro .... Costa blanca ....
Verto
From Madrid
Joined Nov 30, 2010
20 points
Jan 4, 2011
The crux.  Photo by Nathan Gerhardt
I think Spain would be way too hot. We were in Costa Blanca in the beginning of June and it was too hot to climb hard. Do you know of any cooler sport climbing? Aimee Rose
From Bend, or
Joined Mar 23, 2006
1,704 points
Jan 4, 2011
just teasin' the sharks...
CEUSE!!! Dusty
From Fort Collins
Joined Apr 28, 2008
260 points
Jan 4, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
In France, there's a few spots in the Vercors that might be doable in August. Kid friendly, too. Lans-en-Vercors, Corrençon, a few spots outside of Grenoble (huge pile of climbing there). Some info on this site for some of that stuff.

Local climber's website for browsing:

www.gdargaud.net/Climbing/

Maybe the Chartreuse?

I'd suggest Sainte Baume near Aix but its probably fairly warm there in August. Orpierre too?

In Italy, some good spots in the Dolomites (Cinque Torre and near Canazei) that would be fairly kid friendly. I'd think Arco might be too warm too.

Huge pile of info (in general) here:

worldtopo.com/

Cheers and good luck!
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,031 points
Jan 4, 2011
Check out Stewart Greens rock climbing europe, its a great resource! Jeffrey Bauer
Joined Nov 19, 2004
5 points
Jan 4, 2011
Check out Tournoux near Briancon. Not huge but really cool. yevquest
From Southeast,US
Joined May 3, 2007
583 points
Jan 6, 2011
Aimee Rose wrote:
I think Spain would be way too hot. We were in Costa Blanca in the beginning of June and it was too hot to climb hard. Do you know of any cooler sport climbing?


Well here in Spain in Summer ...... sport climbing mainly ..... cooler place than white coast ... it´s dificult to find. May be Pedriza (Madrid, or small places in the North. Pyrinees mainly.

Perhaps Dent D´orlu in Pyrinees ... long routes (several pitches), different leves and I think that you´ll find bolts on almost all the routes.

There is one, pilier sud, 1000 mts 6a+ at the south face. Or another place in France ....

(Sorry about my english, I´m learning step by step)
Verto
From Madrid
Joined Nov 30, 2010
20 points
Jan 16, 2011
Yup! I highly recommend you make your way to Nuremberg, Germany. The town is amazing in itself and is known as the toy capital of Europe, so thats a great start for the kids.

Then by taxi, rental car or best yet a train (ask for the Bavarian Family pass) make your way into any of the small towns in the 'Frankenjurra'. Here you will find tons of sport climbing w/ all sorts of skill levels. Most of it is very accessible.

Recommend you look into the books Frankenjurra Band 1 and Band 2 from Amazon.de to get you started. You can also google it and find the topos from coronn.com. You can download them for free, but I would recommend paying the 4 euro (roughly 5.5 dollars) to help out the site and ensure future development.

I live about 20 minutes away from the South East portion of the Frankenjura -- however, I just recently started climbing since I had to ditch my previous hobbies when I made the move here.

Hope thats a help.
air2mud
Joined Jan 16, 2011
0 points


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