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Spooner 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FA: Jon Nelson, Darryl Cramer '83
Page Views: 628
Submitted By: Drewsky on May 6, 2009

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Before crux

Description 

A powerful start leads to a cruxy balance move. Sustained, delicate climbing leads past several small corners and a small roof to finish on a ledge.

The fact that this route has been flashed by someone five feet tall (guess who) should be enough to silence any complaints about the reachy climbing. The crux is 100% Index and is more than enough to keep almost any ego in check.

The second clip is powerful and a fall from that point would be a ground fall. Also, my diminutive 5'10" reach was just barely enough to get the first quickdraw on from the ground, so bring a tall friend (AKA a stick clip) along if your arms are shorter. The bolt after the crux is even more reachy unless you are bold.


Location 

Located to the left of Heironymous Bosch. It is the leftward trending line of bolts that approaches Fifth Force and then arches back right. A 60m rope should be sufficient for the descent.


Protection 

Six bolts plus a two bolt anchor. If you are short (under 6 ft.) a couple of the bolts will be very difficult to clip (from stances) without quickdraws hanging.



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By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Apr 23, 2012

Now (as of June 2011) has a second and third pitch.

P2: "G is for Giners", 12a (or one letter grade harder than P1).

P3: A 5.8 splitter crack.

I have done neither, so if someone reading this has more info or corrections, please add here.

By Chris Kalman
May 15, 2014

Drew, Ben, or Mike Patz - have any of you guys sent this thing? I tried it today and found the crux foothold to be impossibly far away. The route definitely felt more difficult than 5th Force, Narrow Arrow, Like honey, Orc Tower, Engines of Archimedes, and pretty much every other Index 12 I've tried! I assume the 5' climber was Lynn?

By Jon Nelson
Administrator
May 16, 2014

Chris,
I recall the crux of P1 as an all-out dyno. Or are you referring to the next pitches?

By Drewsky
Jun 22, 2014

Chris: I did send this thing. I did not onsight it, however as did, I believe, Lynn Hill. There may be another way to do it, but ***BETA SPOLER ALERT*** that foothold was the key for me. I thought it couldn't possibly work, but I switched feet on it, R to L, with no real handholds and teetered over to the left somehow for the win. It looked to me like it *might* be possible to climb straight up and move left a little higher, but it sure seemed like it would be harder than the magic foot switch deal.