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Spooner Crag

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Caught in a Mosh 
crimp tuff 
Double Rainbow 
Fire and Ice 
Forget About It 
Hangar 18 
Jello Wars 
Maxwell's Hammer 
Night Cap 
Nightcrawler 
Pocket Pool 
pot belly 
spoonman 
Stepping Out 
Unknown 5.10+ 
yellow finger 

Spooner Crag 


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Location: 39.1002, -119.9139 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,021
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Gill on Apr 5, 2010
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Description 

Crag hidden in the trees above the junction of NV 28 and US 50 on the east shore of tahoe. Small formation of volcanic tuff about 100 feet tall. Two sides yield about a dozen moderates. SW face is more challenging. South face little easier. Mostly sport climbing and one trad 5.8 with one bolt. Can climb in winter, gets great sun, may have snow on the ground.


Getting There 

Pull into the parking lot at the junction of NV 28 and US 50 a few miles west of Spooner Summit. It is on the westide of hwy 28 hundred yards down from the junction. The parking lot is long. Park anywhere but hike west (uphill) in the middle of the parking lot. Many small foot trails lead to the rock about 200 yards from the parking lot. Biggest rock on the ridge. About hundred feet tall.


16 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',5],['5.12',3],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Spooner Crag:
Night Cap   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 125'   
Maxwell's Hammer   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Forget About It   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Pocket Pool   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Jello Wars   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Spooner Crag

Featured Route For Spooner Crag
great little power route up the overhanging arete on north east side of grag

spoonman 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b  NV : Reno - Carson City : Spooner Crag

Comments on Spooner Crag Add Comment
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By Gill
From: minden, nevada
Jul 24, 2010

There are quite a few routes at Spooner that are not in the old Falcon Guide. The names are Unknown to me. When I post a route that in not in the old guide I will just name it unknown with the next number behind it. But, if anyone knows the names or the FA post a comment on the route page and I will change it.

By Kenny Thompson
From: woodfords, california
Jul 24, 2010

Look in carvilles guidebook.

By Gill
From: minden, nevada
Oct 4, 2010

Hanger 18 is mentioned being to the right of Pot Bell. Is it the route with the rock
stack for the start? What is hanger 18 rated at?

By Blitzo
Oct 13, 2010

Hanger 18 is 5.11b.

By Josh Cameron
Feb 25, 2011

Anyone know what the route just left of the first pitch of "Nightcap" is? The direct start looks 5.13ish. I've always liebacked off the right facing flake then traversed in. Lots of fun, especially if you fall at the 2nd bolt! The way I do it it feels 10b to me.

Since I've only been climbing here for a few years I didn't post the route; thought I should let someone with more seniority do it.

By Gill
From: minden, nevada
Mar 6, 2011

Hey Josh,
I have been e-mailing about the route to the left of night cap to a few people and no one knows or remembers the route. I too can't climb the direct but the traverse variation at the right feels like a few moves of V2. I say that because we would bring our pads skip the first bolt and clip the second and then move up. Using the pads as pertection for the fist 15 feet, better than swinging in my oppinion. My converter on the old iphone says a V2 is .11a/b. I know the route isn't that hard, it is just reachy. Would like to find out the true name and grade the FAist put to it. Can anyone help Josh and I? Someone has to know this route. It is the only one I haven't been able to find.

By Josh Cameron
Jun 6, 2011

Hi Gill,

Thanks for the reply. You're more ballsy than me to climb to the second bolt! It looks a long way down from up there. Even if we never find out the name or first ascentionist, it sure is a fun climb and always remains challenging, at least for me.