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Start up Flake Out, but stop well before the offwidth. Pitch 2 is the crux - a thin crack in a dihedral. It finishes on top of the rock - walk off to the right. This climb is in the sun only in the morning.
|By Brandon R.|
From: San Mateo, CA
Oct 14, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Bring micro nuts for the start.
May 19, 2009
Yep, #1 wild country rock, or thereabout protects the crux. Not much else there. The moves reminded me of the crux of cosmosis in Boulder canyon, but not quite as hard. You can easily reach the Etude rap anchor from this route.
|By Randy in Ridgecrest|
From: Inyokern, CA
May 22, 2012
This was one of my first 5.9 leads, back in 1974, with Kelly Vought (The Troll). Worn out PA's and before camming units, and I couldn't get gear in for the most of the dihedrel. I was just barely making it at the top and made a big desperate heave, smashing my head into the overhang. I don't know how I hung on. I pulled over knowing I just came pretty close to dying.
Aug 6, 2012
Spooky indeed! The thing sounds like fiberglass when you knock on it. One hard move in the dihedral on a committing smear. Easily done in one pitch with a 70m.
To clarify the description this starts way right near Étude.