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 ADVANCED
Northeast Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Etude T 
Flake Out T 
Flakes of Wrath T 
Flower of High Rank T 
Johnny Quest T 
Rock Hudson T 
Spooky Spike T 
Wet Dreams T 

Spooky Spike 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Charlie Raymond, W. Burke, and Paul Raymond, December, 1968
Page Views: 1,421
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 25, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Traverse on flakes over to the short dihedral with...

Description 

Start up Flake Out, but stop well before the offwidth. Pitch 2 is the crux - a thin crack in a dihedral. It finishes on top of the rock - walk off to the right. This climb is in the sun only in the morning.

Protection 

standard rack


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By Brandon R.
Oct 14, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Bring micro nuts for the start.
By jay2718
May 19, 2009

Yep, #1 wild country rock, or thereabout protects the crux. Not much else there. The moves reminded me of the crux of cosmosis in Boulder canyon, but not quite as hard. You can easily reach the Etude rap anchor from this route.
By Randy in Ridgecrest
From: Inyokern, CA
May 22, 2012

This was one of my first 5.9 leads, back in 1974, with Kelly Vought (The Troll). Worn out PA's and before camming units, and I couldn't get gear in for the most of the dihedrel. I was just barely making it at the top and made a big desperate heave, smashing my head into the overhang. I don't know how I hung on. I pulled over knowing I just came pretty close to dying.
By Tradoholic
Aug 6, 2012

Spooky indeed! The thing sounds like fiberglass when you knock on it. One hard move in the dihedral on a committing smear. Easily done in one pitch with a 70m.

To clarify the description this starts way right near Étude.