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Spontaneous Combustion 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Darryl Roth, Dave Dangle and Richard Aschert
Page Views: 2,373
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Mar 19, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Description 

This route is located on the beautiful slab of rock south of the Ejection Wall. As of Mar '05, it was marked by a small plaque at the base, and it is listed in the Van Horn guide (though not on the topo).

An excellent route on superb rock, this is one of the few routes at shelf that starts on bomber rock, and thus has no choss on the entire route. The hardest moves are at the very start with a difficult boulder problem. It's best to clip the low first bolt from the ground, or get a spotter. Once you reach the second bolt, it's all gravy, with some spectacular pockets on perfect stone. The upper climbing gets a bit tedious, as it doesn't rise to the level of the lower section, but it is still good climbing.

This route rivals the Gym Arete for the best 12- at the Gym, and is a must do!


Protection 

[10] bolts, I think. Clip the first bolt from the ground, before you start.



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By Bill Ballace
From: Pullman,WA
Apr 30, 2007

The move to get established on the route is technical and somewhat dynamic, but it is also true that the rest of the route is not that difficult. I am not sure how I would grade this route but, I will say that this is a great route.

By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
May 12, 2008

10 bolts + 2 for the anchors. This climb is rad. Most people climbing solid 5.11 would onsight this if it wasn't for the beginning. Just figure out how to get off the ground and hold on thru the pumpy climbing to the 4th bolt.

By Darryl Roth
Jul 21, 2009

This was my FA. Dave Dangle and Richard Aschert were in on it as well. I've always felt a bit uncertain that the grade should be .12a. That singular move just makes me hesitant and perhaps is better at .11d or c. I suppose that consensus is the boss.

By slim
Administrator
Mar 18, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I'm surprised that everybody says it is game over after the opening moves. I was able to get through the start each time but wasn't able to stick the move at the bulge until my 3rd try. I'm pretty tall, and it was still a really really big throw for me. It seemed like there were only a couple holds to work with, so I'm curious to see if other folks found a better way. It is pretty hard to come up with a game plan from the ground - the rock almost camoflauges the holds, and the bulging nature makes it tough to get a good look ahead. The trial run was pretty much flying by the seat of your pants climbing. Pretty cool.

I thought the upper part was kind of heady. The climbing wasn't that difficult, but I was anxious about flubbing it and having to start over. It seemed like several of the bolts were pretty high and you have to do a balancy move into awkward stances to clip, instead of clipping from good stances and then doing the moves. Some times you are doing this with the bolt well below your feet, and several times it seemed like the hold I was clipping off of could be fragile. I definitely didn't want to fall as it is slabby with some small ledges. I thought this kind of detracted a bit from the quality, but overall I still think it is a really good route.

By William Mondragon
From: My car
Dec 7, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I stick clipped 2nd bolt because 1st is so low. First move crux for sure. It seems like it's going to be hard getting to and clipping 3rd, but the holds are good (especially the one you clip off of), then another boulder problem to get over the bulge and clip 4th bolt. I personally really enjoy enjoyed the climbing from here to the anchors, you don't have to clip every 2 moves, and the rock is so good. Stay on your toes because there is one last bouldery sequence from the last bolt to the anchor!