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 ADVANCED
Upper Broadway
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcoa Presents T 
Amazing Grace T 
Castor T 
Changling, The T 
Conn's East T 
Conn's East Direct T 
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 
Dinah Moe-Hum T 
Dirty Old Man T 
Discontent T 
Expletive Deleted T 
Frosted Flake T 
Grand Finale T 
Hidden Assets S 
High Test T 
Hopeful Illusions T 
Kid Galahad T 
Low Octane T 
Nip and Tuck T 
Orangeaid T 
Pancho and Lefty S 
Pickleright T 
Pollux T 
Soler T 
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 
Spock's Brain T 
Talbert Picklefish T 
Terminal Velocity T 
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 
Time Flies T 
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 
Vision, The T 
Windy Corner T 
Unsorted Routes:

Spock's Brain 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Leith Wain, Jack Beatty
Page Views: 2,123
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: The rope follows the line of the climb.

Description 

Start by climbing a shallow right facing corner to it's end. At this point, follow the thin crack systems heading slightly to the right and then back left. You will hit a point where you are about 10 Ft under an obvious jug. At this point you will be forced to leave your gear and gun it to the good hold(crux). After this, head to the shuts. This route has surprisingly good gear, as long as your cool with micronuts and very small cams. This is a good choice for breaking into the 5.11 grade at Seneca.

Location 

Just to the right of Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall Or just to the left of High Test.

Protection 

Full set of Micronuts or brass offsets. Bring small aliens or the like.


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By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Apr 7, 2015
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Second vote on the micronuts. I found the stances for gear placement to be pretty desperate, too.
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