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The Elephant's Perch
Routes Sorted
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Astro Elephant T 
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Direct Beckey T 
Divine Guidance T 
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Mojo  T 
Mountaineer's Route T 
Myopia T 
Original Beckey T 
Sideline T 
Splittgerber-March Direct T 
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Wendy T 

Splittgerber-March Direct 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jeff Splittgerber, Bill March, 1975
Season: summer
Page Views: 2,929
Submitted By: Clint Cummins on Jul 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: topo by Reid Dowdle


One of the more moderate outings at the Perch, with 3 shorts sections of easy 5.10. The "5.9+" traverse starting p5 is not well protected for the follower unless some gear is left in the corner for a backrope belay.

For the best beta, see Brad Brandewie's photo trip report.


On the West face, left of the Mountaineer's Route. Standard descent from the top, down the gully on the right side of the wall.


Extra wired nuts for p1.

Photos of Splittgerber-March Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Elephant's Perch - West Face <br />  <br />25. The Breach 5.11  <br />24. Pandemonium Palace 5.11  <br />23. Splittgerber-March Direct 5.10b  <br />21. Beyond the Zero 5.9 A3  <br />19. Mountaineer's Route 5.8 - 5.9
BETA PHOTO: Elephant's Perch - West Face 25. The Breach 5.11...
Looking down on the upper traverse.
Looking down on the upper traverse.
Looking up at the first pitch... <br /> <br />Although this pitch was rated the crux, I found it noticeably easier than pitches 5 and 7 as marked on the topo.
Looking up at the first pitch... Although this pi...
Looking back across the sketchy traverse on our fourth pitch.  <br /> <br />This is a somewhat dangerous pitch for the second.
Looking back across the sketchy traverse on our fo...
Paul Kejla working his way up the chimney on pitch 4.
Paul Kejla working his way up the chimney on pitch...
best to belay a few feet lower where gear is easier.. prob where that last piece is..
best to belay a few feet lower where gear is easie...

Comments on Splittgerber-March Direct Add Comment
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By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Jun 12, 2009

This is a great sustained line with a surprising amount of strenuous climbing on the upper 1/2. Excellent crux first pitch layback/stem corner. Some dirt here and there, but pretty clean...it seems to be gaining some popularity. I enjoyed it as much as Astro Elephant and thought it a bit more full value of a day.
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 29, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun route. Pitch 1 and 6 are fun fingers/tips and we felt both deserve the 5.10 grade. Not sure about all the fuss on the "5.9+" face traverse; felt more like 5.8, although it is hard to protect the second. Don't let your guard down on the upper pitches. This route's not done 'til you tag the top. As good as Astro Elephant? Not quite, but almost.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 2, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Be sure and bring some small TCU si zed cams - to me the "crux" was occasional gear in slabby areas to keep it safe. Agreed that its not over until you hit the top.
By Bob Graham
Sep 10, 2011

First route on the Perch, very very good. I agree the climbing is very sustained and physical with lots of "wild" sections. Some awesome chimney climbing and wide crack systems. The 2 slabby sections are very different from the rest. Highly recommend this one!
By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
Sep 13, 2011

Just did this route two weeks ago. Lead every pitch. Having lead 36 other pitches during the previous 4 days, I was a bit knackered for this one. Each of the 5.10 pitches caused me some concern as I barely eeked out the on-sights. Beware of a scary traverse before reaching the base of the giant dihedral. The 5.9+ climbing up this dihedral is incredibly awesome. Though the vegetation on P2 & 3 detract from the overall quality of the route it is none-the-less well worth doing.