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Splitters in Red Rock.
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By David Donovan
From Sammamish, Washinton
Feb 17, 2012
pics

Do you know of a splitter crack in Red Rock that is not in any guidebook? Not a climb that "was ok, I guess.."... When you saw it and climbed it you said, "That was F#*ing SICK!!"
An unknown jewel if you will...


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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Feb 17, 2012
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl

There are a couple. But, you should do some legwork and find them for yourself. Don't you think it hurts better when you find them on your own?


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By David Donovan
From Sammamish, Washinton
Feb 18, 2012
pics

Funny coming from a guy who considers Handbone "Worth the hike for the best splitter of its grade in Red Rock. Is there another route of this quality in the Park? Show me."

If that's your idea of a sick climb, don't bother.

Have no fear, I will be finding my own routs... but I won't be keeping them a secret! :p


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By -robin-
Feb 18, 2012
walkoff from tenya peak, sunset

Still at it David, The locals here are so secretive.. I wonder what they are hiding..


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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Feb 18, 2012
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl

Handbone is worth the hike. Hiking into unknown places is what it will take, I guess, for you to find that splitter is fucking sick. If you're interested in going for a hike I'd be down. Let me know.


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By David Donovan
From Sammamish, Washinton
Feb 20, 2012
pics

Sounds good, lets go. I'm don't have a job, so I'm available anytime


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By Karsten
From Sacramento, CA
Feb 21, 2012
FA's can be scary.  Photo by DeAngelo

I haven't climbed it but this looks pretty splitter and less traveled.

Honcho Imposter



Another one that didn't make the latest Handren guide but fits your "That was F#@$ing Sick." For me, this was this that kind of gem. Very Herbstish style so bring your wide skills.

The Black Pearl


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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Feb 22, 2012
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl

Those look pretty damn good. I've only viewed Honcho from the trail but it looks like a fine climb.

This isn't in any guidebook and is a pretty varied climb: Step Into The Squeezer


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By J. Thompson
From denver, co
Feb 22, 2012
Trundling a death block. Photo by Dan Gambino.

Here are a couple of decent crack climbs:

This one is only 5.8 but a fun little adventure:

mountainproject.com/v/kick-in-the-balls/105732719


This one is quite good. The first pitch is really quality climbing with a variety of crack sizes...and true to Red rock a little face.:

mountainproject.com/v/beer-run/105954664

You could climb Beerrun, then do Kick...

Have fun!

josh


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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Feb 23, 2012
Dow Williams, 2011

One of the more consistent (good climbing) breaks in all of Red Rock has to be on the route Ixtlan. We did it yesterday. The crack actually extends damn near from bottom to top on Whisky Peak. But the unique outward bend split on pitch two (5.10a) that eventually turns into one of the purest off width splitters (5.10d) I have climbed is unique and has always caught my attention over the years walking by it en-route to Black Velvet wall. The 5.11c or 12a bolted starts has no doubt barred some entry. But the manky upper pitch bolts might feed into that as well. Reality is, just go ahead and carry a C4 #6 or possibly two. If the extra weight really affects your climbing prowess, you are no doubt a 5.13 climber anyway. The whole route is worth doing...the upper 5.9 pitches (and rock) is quite good by Red Rock standards.

Ixtlan
Ixtlan


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By trundlebum
From Las Vegas NV
Feb 23, 2012
Somewhere in Tuolumne, sometime early 80's

Karsten:

I saw that thing "Black Pearl' when Larry and I went up next to it to do a route.

F%#@k'n sic is right.

Looks a little scary(run out, close to ground fall) getting up and into the pod that your in, in the picture ?


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By Zappatista
Feb 23, 2012
Book me, officer.

Dow, you are a funny mofo. Respect.

Hey David I hear Evil Empire's waiting for ya to get a repeat. But it is just a short pile, if you think Handbone is doo-doo you're probably best off just moving to the Creek, especially if you're unemployed and not looking for work. We have lots of nice crack systems in Vegas but if that's really where your head is at, I'd go to the source.

Tell ya what. Post up a list of Vegas splitters you've climbed and what you thought of them. Then you'll be able to pry better suggestions out of people. Andy's been posting up a bunch of other "short" "piles" up at the Monument, maybe climb Ixtlan and get back to us? Without context, it's really pretty tough to put anything on the table for you. Do you think Cloud Tower's a lame duck too? Atman has too many face holds? Lady Wilson's Cleavage too short?

There are tons of splitters hiding out there, I really doubt anyone's interested in handing you Ye Olde Map To Future 5-Star FAs, and surfing MP is going to get you better results than posting up ultra-broad questions. Best of luck regardless-I think this place is amazing and beautiful for all the warts, choss, faceholds, and shortness it has.


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By cassondra
From las vegas, NV
Feb 23, 2012
in repose

There is a short but sweet looking IC style splitter that, judging from the few little rocks that should be popped out of it, is just waiting for an FA. It is the summit block of Hollow Rock Peak (above the Disappearing Buttress.) It starts with hands and goes to OW. Additionally it splits the entire block, so on the other side it is a finger crack that runs up through the back of a wide pod and a short roof (twofer FA's.) They are unfortunately short, more like highball boulder problems, and have a substantial approach, which is probably why no one has claimed them, but they sure are purty!


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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Feb 23, 2012
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl

I just climb choss all day, Killis! Sorry I didn't make it out today- I vomitted in my coffee (not really, but almost) and have been laying in bed all day. Kuehl had a stomach bug and I think I caught it. Splitters man... they don't exist.


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By sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Feb 24, 2012
Cool snow formation at the base.

cassondra wrote:
There is a short but sweet looking IC style splitter that, judging from the few little rocks that should be popped out of it, is just waiting for an FA. It is the summit block of Hollow Rock Peak (above the Disappearing Buttress.) It starts with hands and goes to OW. Additionally it splits the entire block, so on the other side it is a finger crack that runs up through the back of a wide pod and a short roof (twofer FA's.) They are unfortunately short, more like highball boulder problems, and have a substantial approach, which is probably why no one has claimed them, but they sure are purty!


That splitter on the southeast side starts out overhanging #4's. Then it turns to OW/chimney a little higher. It looked pretty burley.

Scary Larry and I climbed the other route. It was pretty fun and checked in at the 10 range. I don't even remember what the name was though.


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By Greg Barnes
Feb 24, 2012
Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Needle. Photo by Josh Janes.

Funny thing about Black Pearl is that if they'd waited a week, the FRA would have been Bruce Bindner (Brutus of Wyde) since we walked right up to their fresh cairn just after the FRA (which we knew nothing about)...and instead did a couple of other nice cracks - this one in particular is a fun crack, although it'd be best to borrow a second #4 bigbro to supplement your one (or 2 if you don't have one...but if you don't already have one you might want to pass...):
www.mountainproject.com/v/balsamic/106139835


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By cassondra
From las vegas, NV
Feb 24, 2012
in repose

Glad to hear you and Larry climbed the west side, Matt. It looked really interesting and attractive. I scrambled around to the cleft in the SE side (a bit of an adventure in itself with the exposure) and touched the bottom of it. it started at hand size for me, and I might add that my hands are not particularly large. I agree with you, it looked pretty burly.


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By sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Feb 24, 2012
Cool snow formation at the base.

cassondra wrote:
Glad to hear you and Larry climbed the west side, Matt. It looked really interesting and attractive. I scrambled around to the cleft in the SE side (a bit of an adventure in itself with the exposure) and touched the bottom of it. it started at hand size for me, and I might add that my hands are not particularly large. I agree with you, it looked pretty burly.


You must have been at the very bottom then. I only peaked at it from the side, which looked possible to get to from the west about halfway up.


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