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Splitboard Mountaineering
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By Ryan Kempf
From Boulder, CO
Apr 18, 2014
Ryan on the Sharks Fin wishing he was on Mt. Whiteny.

I just picked up a pair of Deeluxe Spark XV boots. They have a Vibram sole, heel welt and take a semi-automatic crampon (my lynx fit like a glove). I am wondering if anyone has experience with how they climb on ice? The idea of being able to skin in, ice climb and ride out all in the same boots sounds genius.

I know someone out there is climbing ice in these boots, there's no way I'm the only with this idea.any stories or experiences with splitboard mountaineering are also appreciated.

Yes, I already looked @ splitboard.com... Not many of those boys are ice climbing from what I can see/read. I'll probably cross-post over there too, but figured I'd see what the MP crowd has to say.

Thanx!


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Apr 18, 2014
Bocan

Check out TGR or Justin over at seizethecarp.weebly.com

I'm using Burton Driver X's with wide Grivel G10's. Never done pure ice in them, but probably wouldn't want to do more than just steps.

Get some mountain plates, and use your ice boots.


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By goingUp
Apr 18, 2014

i do some split mountaineering, but mostly with my snowboard boots on. ive been looking into doing something a lttle different as well.
A climbing partner of mine uses a hard shelled mountaineering boot, with a snowboard boot liner inside it over the original. He uses a ski boot velcro strap for the upper section of the boot liner. he uses these on spark r&d lightrail bindings, adn they ride pretty well. obviously some sacrifice in snowboarding with the harder shell, however, they hold a crampon to ice much better than anything else ive tried!


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By Nick Stayner
From The Magic City
Apr 18, 2014
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.

Ryan Kempf wrote:
I just picked up a pair of Deeluxe Spark XV boots... I am wondering if anyone has experience with how they climb on ice?


Yes. Dicked around on some WI3 to get an idea of how they perform, and numerous times on short sections of alpine ice in the mountains. Not something you're going to be performing at a super high level in (the sole isn't stiff enough), but for ice you're going to encounter on typical ski mountaineering routes (a la Ford-Chevy on the Grand Teton), they're fine.

Ryan Kempf wrote:
Yes, I already looked @ splitboard.com... Not many of those boys are ice climbing from what I can see/read. I'll probably cross-post over there too, but figured I'd see what the MP crowd has to say. Thanx!


Do that and you will get a whole barrage of posts about why you should switch to a TLT/Phantom hardboot setup. Not many people serious enough about climbing ice in their soft boots frequent that site.

I have to agree with Scott though. If you're looking to use your split as a means of transportation to and from ice routes, you should certainly look into getting some mountain plates that will allow you to use your ice climbing boot.


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By Nick Stayner
From The Magic City
Apr 18, 2014
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.

goingUp wrote:
he uses these on spark r&d lightrail bindings


For the record, that is a Voile binding, not Spark R & D.


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By FoamFinger
From Grand Rapids, Michigan
Apr 18, 2014

I've seen some buddies using La Sportive Baruntse boots to splitboard mountaineer and I know first hand that they climb ice pretty well. Stellar boots, but they are a bit of an investment...


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By goingUp
Apr 18, 2014

thanks nick, it is the voille setup


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