2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Start as for Isn't Life Strange at central Animal World. Clip the first bolt on that route, then lean left and clip a bolt at the base of the clean face. Trend up and right following a thin seam past two more bolts to a small overlap. Clip a bolt above this feature and step left (crux for all but the very tall), then go up the beautiful orange face to a double buttonhead station. Clip these with two long slings and head straight up through a large roof, left to a stance, then up through two smaller overhangs to the anchors on Talking Out of Turn.
Split Personality is located on the central Animal World Buttress between Talking Out of Turn to the left and Isn't Life Strange to the right. This route is best approached by hiking almost all the way to Animal World right, then doubling back and up on a faint trail to a large ledge at the base of the route.
11 QDs (including two longer slings) plus two for the anchor.
I am not trying to be a hater here, but this route is more or less a contrived, squeeze job - at least the bottom half. Not stepping over onto ILS takes almost as much effort as the 5.12 moves themselves! The upper section is pretty cool, although there too you kind of have to force yourself not to bail onto the neighboring 10a to the left. Seems like it could have been done as a variation finish to one of the neighboring routes rather than adding a whole new line of bolts. Just sayin'.
By MattL From: Boulder, CO Nov 14, 2012 rating: 5.127b+27VIII+26E6 6b
Excellent addition to the crag! Yes, it might share a hold or two with ILS, but for most part it is an independent line with classic movement. It has a little bit of everything - thin technical slabbing, thuggy roof climbing, and a slopey finishing crux. Well done!