Split Personality 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Keith Cunning,1979 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jan 1, 2005 |
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Just about to make the split
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Description Climb Double Dogleg to the point where it stars leaning left and then cut right to reach a splitter finger crack. Positive jams and edges work up the face to a thin frictiony move at the top that leads right to the bolted anchors. Fun moves, good rock and bomber gear are found on this route, but the shortness of the climbing independant of Double Dogleg detracts slightly from the overall quality. Three stars out of five.
Location Immediately right of Rock Candy is this fine route that should not be confused with another quality route with the same name in the Sheep Pass area.
Protection Pro to 3", bolted anchor/rap (3/8")
Sean enjoying the splitter finger crack of Split ...
| Passed the tough transition, now for the sustained...
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| Comments on Split Personality |
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By Steve Powell From: Alhambra, California Apr 29, 2003
| another fun finger crack. |
By Joseph Lee Oct 14, 2005
| Yet another fun route. Too bad it's so short. Nice slab finish. |
By Scott Edlin From: boulder, co Apr 12, 2006
| fun! seemed easier than rock candy, but maybe just because it was shorter. |
By Obi From: Portland, OR Oct 22, 2006 rating: 5.9
| Felt the crux were the last few moves onto the slabs. |
By Colin Parker Administrator From: Idyllwild, CA May 22, 2009 rating: 5.9
| Enjoyed this route a great deal. The crux for us was definetely the split from double dogleg over to the thin crack, although the remainder of the route from that point has its challenges. Enjoy! |
By Tyler Knubs Oct 27, 2011
| if you are doing this route on top rope i would advise going to the top of the route from the left. from the base of the climb go left a ways until you see a slanted wall that you can go up very easily. climb up that to get to the top (dont worry, it's not real climbing, but it's not quite a walk up). after you are at the top you will have to make your way back right to the climb......all in all it takes a little time to get to the top and then to the route, but it is the easiest way and is worth it for the climb. |
By Canon Nov 17, 2012 rating: 5.9
| The hardest part may be making the last unprotected friction move to top out. Make sure you place something in the end of the crack! |
By Climb To Safety From: california Feb 15, 2013
| Top roped this after climbing double dogleg, great route on an even greater wall, can't wait to go back on a warmer day. |
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