Split Decision 5.12a
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Alan Watts, April 2, 1984 |
| Submitted By: | Max Tepfer on Sep 6, 2012 |
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Description Chimney up on top of the pillar at the base of Titus (bolts) and mantle on top to contemplate the climbing above. Difficult, but doable climbing on sparse (but safe) protection brings you to good gear and fun fingerlocks in a corner. The fingercrack peters out all too quickly and leaves you baffled trying to weave through technical sequences (bolts) and a stout crux high in the corner on perfect stone. After the crux, look around for the best line to the chains. Awesome climbing!
Location Right of Pure Palm.
Protection Gear to 1", QDs.
| Comments on Split Decision |
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By Alex Shainman
From: Portland, OR
Apr 7, 2013
| SD is a cool line for sure, not one of the best but there's hard climbing on good rock and engaging moves above gear and then bolt protected funkiness between arete and seam. Having the three upper bolts is nice compared to what appeared to have been short knifeblades in the seam. It's too bad the pillar is there and there isn't an uncontrived direct start. I didn't see a 1" placement and found #00-#2 TCU's and a #10 Stopper to be the best pro for the middle. Don't fall above the 2nd bolt before getting gear! The crux is a real thinker that's for sure! |
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