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McInnis Canyons
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Split Decision T 

Split Decision 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Baker, Leslie Henderson, Wilson Goodrich
Page Views: 702
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 12, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Jim Bodenhamer rappin'.

Description 

This is in Kodel's Canyon. This can be a bit challenging to find. This is west of Fruita Canyon and west of the West end of Rim Rock Drive. From Desert Rock III, E. Bjornstad writes "Exit 19 off I-70, go south, drive across the Colorado River, turn right on King's View Dr. At the turn, a sign reads "Horse Thief Canyon State Wildlife Area." Approximately 0.5 mi take the first left turn, dirt road. Here there is a change. Go to the fenced limit. Park. Apparently, one used to be able to drive all the way to the canyon mouth. Hike up the canyon 45-60 minutes, starting in the wash. This is beautiful country. There is a window in the rock high and right from you. You will have to cross a drainage or two along the way. The Little Bighorn Pinnacle makes a good visual landmark. Behind this pinnacle on the right lies the buttress with Split Decision.

Find a crack angling to the top of the buttress. This is sandy, you may consider protective eyewear. I just had sunglasses and received bilateral corneal abrasions on this climb.

Pitch 1: lieback a flake, rest, find a thin crack through a roof (allegedly the 1st pitch crux). Move right past 1 bolt (seemed intimidating) and then up past 3 pins and up to a semi-hanging belay in a pod of sorts. #1 1/2, 2 #2 Friends useful for belay.

Pitch 2: follow crack up to a steep bit. Lieback strenuously to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. (This bit seemed hard for 10a).

Pitch 3: follow crack past a pin and face climb past 3 drilled pins. Note, some of the holds on this pitch may have broken off, which may have changed the rating.

Rap the route. From the top of the 2nd pitch, you can rap to the ground with 60m ropes.

Protection 

Double cams with extra #2, #2 1/2, #3 Friends. 1 #4 Friend and 1 #4 Camalot useful. 60m ropes.


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By Doug Redosh
Apr 18, 2003

My partner backed off on p1 at the layback flake due to uncertainty of pro. Looks like a cool line in a beautiful canyon. The turnoff onto the dirt road at 0.5 miles is easy to miss. If the gravel road curves left, you have gone too far.
By Ryan Jennings
Nov 7, 2005

Yes, take the dirt road on the left just before the main road curves left and turns to dirt. Follow this road heading towards the cliffs untill you find a gate and trailhead in the middle of nowhere. Follow the old road.
By Kurt Aronow
From: Louisville, CO
May 1, 2007

The first pitch is a little loose, but very good. The second pitch is very similar to "Blind Faith" (5.10a) in Eldorado Canyon except more with fingers; this pitch has excellent quality. The third pitch is highly loose (helmet required for second). The third pitch appears to be missing some key handholds half-way up that make one section appear to be 5.11, unprotected face on sandy, steep rock. We backed off here from a small, fixed wired chock.