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Split Beaver 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bill Robins, Paul Certa. August 1989
Page Views: 522
Submitted By: Josh Baxley on Mar 25, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: Split Beaver takes the right hand crack.

Description 

Starts at the crack to the right of Shady Chimney. Mostly hand holds at the beginning, up to a decent hand crack. You can stem on Shady Chimney at first crux.
End of the route has an interesting pair of finger cracks and large step blocks.

Location 

The crack opposite of Shady Chimney. Optional variation links up to Corner Pockets after the pillar.

Protection 

You might be able to squeeze a BD #4 in there, but gear to 3" is fine


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By Kyle Pease
From: Missoula, MT
Jun 14, 2013

I found it plenty safe on gear to 3". Trundled several large blocks 10' below and left of chains chalked with an X a couple weeks ago. The lower chalked piece 1/2 way up route is very well keyed in, I spent some time seeing if it could slide out, to no avail. It is easy to climb by it without using it however.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Mar 20, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

this route gets my vote as one of the best 5.9 at Vantage, it is better and more interesting than Air Guitar.
double up from BD .5- #2, crux after big ledge is finger size on left and tight hands on right.
By Sean Maher
From: Bristol, England
Sep 7, 2015

great climbing but beware of the big loose flake marked with an X half way up. It moves if you mess with it
By Marlin Thorman
From: Spokane, WA
5 days ago
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Big flake halfway up is now gone as of Sept 2016. It looks recent too....hopefully it didn't pull out with someone on it.

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