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Split Beaver
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Split Beaver 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Nick Taylor, Peter Peart, 1975
Page Views: 2,997
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Not too many people can finish Split Beaver on fis...

Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pull over an initial bulge and start jamming up a gently but continuously overhanging and continuously widening crack. As it widens the usual difficulties transitioning from hands to fists are encountered, but it's when the fists get rattly that you earn it.

Apparently it can be done with fists only if you have very big hands. I needed two fist and palm stacks to finish it.

Once you're through the widest part there's a ledge with an anchor, or you can continue up another 20 ft of easier climbing to another anchor.

Mike Hengeveld used to have a good write-up and pictures of climbing this route, but his website seems to be off the air now. UPDATE: it's still around, just at a different address

Location 

Once you're at the crag, there is no mistaking which climb is Split Beaver.

Protection 

This crack will take one or two every size of cam from .75" to 5" but it's not so long that doubles are warranted. You can gauge it from the bottom. Bolted rap anchor.


Photos of Split Beaver Slideshow Add Photo
Michele from Canmore on Split Beaver near the top.
Michele from Canmore on Split Beaver near the top.
Many good fists to be had if you reach for them
Many good fists to be had if you reach for them
Bring plenty of large cams!
Bring plenty of large cams!
harder than it looks
harder than it looks
Near the top.
Near the top.
Aaron on Split Beaver
Aaron on Split Beaver
Visiting Basque climber Joaquin starts up Split Be...
Visiting Basque climber Joaquin starts up Split Be...
Split Beaver is a beautiful climb
Split Beaver is a beautiful climb
Visiting Basque climber Joaquin  on his way up Spl...
Visiting Basque climber Joaquin on his way up Spl...
Can't miss it! It's the big gaping off width right...
Can't miss it! It's the big gaping off width right...
Visiting Basque climber Joaquin higher up on Split...
Visiting Basque climber Joaquin higher up on Split...
A few butterflies help through the crux
A few butterflies help through the crux

Comments on Split Beaver Add Comment
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By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jul 27, 2012

By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Managed this one after falling near the top on my first try. Great route with plenty of spots to rest and only a short section larger than fists to throw you off. Great for working on your fist jams and hand stacks.

Perfect rack to sew it up in camalots = 1x 0.75 (green) (for the first section after the boulder start), 1x 2 (yellow), 2x 3 (blue), 2x 4 (grey), 1x 5 (purple)
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Aug 11, 2013

A 4.5 Camalot works very well for the top section. Probably better than a #5, but I can't say as I didn't use one.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 16, 2013

Super fun battle. My rack: green c3 for the boulder move, #1, #0.75, 2x#2, #3, #3.5, 2x#4, 1x#5. Sews it up.. though I did slide the #5 up for the last move.
By Alex Ch
From: Fairfield, CT
Jul 3, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The crux is hard
By Mark van Eijk
Apr 15, 2015

One of the top lines in the bluffs. Splitter, steep, and extremely aesthetic. There is only a short section of true off-width, most will be able to get good hands and fists until the large horizontal break 2/3s of the way up the route. After this the crack widens to a legitimately hard size, too big for fists, too small for knees. The difficulties are compounded by the flaring nature of the crack at this point. Fortunately it's just an 8 foot grovel to a no-hands rest ledge and then a fun top-out on solid stacks and knees.

I didn't protect the initial boulder problem and I am not at all bold, the only hard moves here are 4 feet off the ground. Matt's gear suggestion is spot-on. There are a couple of chockstones wedged in the lower half. Yank away, they're going nowhere.

This route dries fast (except the often-seeping first move) and gets pleasant, filtered afternoon sun. Perfect for every day.
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