Split Beaver  5.10b

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  Nick Taylor, Peter Peart, 1975 Submitted By:  Peter Spindloe on Apr 23, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Not too many people can finish Split Beaver on fis...

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Description 

Pull over an initial bulge and start jamming up a gently but continuously overhanging and continuously widening crack. As it widens the usual difficulties transitioning from hands to fists are encountered, but it's when the fists get rattly that you earn it.

Apparently it can be done with fists only if you have very big hands. I needed two fist and palm stacks to finish it.

Once you're through the widest part there's a ledge with an anchor, or you can continue up another 20 ft of easier climbing to another anchor.

Mike Hengeveld used to have a good write-up and pictures of climbing this route, but his website seems to be off the air now. UPDATE: it's still around, just at a different address

Location 

Once you're at the crag, there is no mistaking which climb is Split Beaver.

Protection 

This crack will take one or two every size of cam from .75" to 5" but it's not so long that doubles are warranted. You can gauge it from the bottom. Bolted rap anchor.

Photos of Split Beaver Slideshow

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Michele from Canmore on Split Beaver near the top.

Near the top.