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d. Strictly - Shockley's
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Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 
Ribs T 
Ruby Saturday Direct T 
Shockley's Ceiling T 
Shockley's Without T 
Simple Ceilings T 
Splashtic T 
Strictly From Nowhere T 
Travels With Charley T 

Splashtic 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dick Williams, Ants Leemets, 1966
Page Views: 1,146
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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This is the start of Splashtic, which is a little ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route gets its name from what a fall on pitch 2 would sound/feel like. The first pitch is worth doing at least once, but there is a very height-related move at the crux.

P1: Start 40' left of Strictly From Nowhere. There is an attractive-looking short face to the left of a shallow right-facing corner. Climb this face using small cams in horizontals for gear. There is a very reachy move at the top, before you pull onto the slab. Follow the slab (5.9-) up and right to a sling anchor (replaced 5/2011) in a hollow flake. 5.10a, 70'.

Rappel from here, or continue...

P2: Climb the corner, then angle up right to a white face and corner. Step up the corner to get high pro, then downclimb and traverse right around the arete (crux) onto a face and belay below an overhang. 5.9R, 70'.

P3: Angle up right and climb a notch through an overhang to the GT Ledge. 5.7, 60'.


Protection 

Standard Rack, extra small cams.


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By Gunkiemike
May 19, 2010

The P1 crux isn't necessarily height-sensitive...if you "know the trick".
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 20, 2012

P1 is not r-rated. It's a nice short pitch, one move wonder. It was my first 10 lead at the gunks. Also, it's not height dependent. I am only 62" and I made it just fine.
By Dan Flynn
Administrator
From: MA
Nov 13, 2013

I found no fixed anchor after p1 -- ended up just going to GT ledge and rapping down over Strictly.
By SethG
Nov 14, 2013

Dan, I did that first pitch in 2012. The threaded anchor mentioned in the guidebook is indeed gone, but there was a different anchor, I think on a tree, just a little bit left in a shallow corner/gully. My partner had used it before and clued me in to look for it-- I hadn't noticed this anchor just a few weeks before when I did Gaston, and so I had continued to the top of the cliff on Gaston when I never found the anchor.

So take this with a grain of salt, this info is from last year, but there was an anchor there at that time if you looked around.
By Alec32
From: NY, NY
May 3, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Did this for the first time yesterday, so I don't know where the anchor used to be, but there is a new looking sling threaded around a decently bomber chunk of rock on the face at the end of the fist pitch. Easy to build an anchor there, but note that that means you're headed straight right for the second pitch; no need to go "up" the corner to get to the traverse. I thought it worked well this way.

Yes the second pitch is slightly scary. But if you did the first pitch, moves on the second should be no big deal. It is also a fantastically fun pitch -- don't rap after the first pitch because the best is yet to come!!! I think three stars for this one if you do the whole thing. Note, no fixed anchor at the end of the second pitch.

A sixty gets you down from the ending ledge in 2 raps.
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