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The route gets its name from what a fall on pitch 2 would sound/feel like. The first pitch is worth doing at least once, but there is a very height-related move at the crux.
P1: Start 40' left of Strictly From Nowhere. There is an attractive-looking short face to the left of a shallow right-facing corner. Climb this face using small cams in horizontals for gear. There is a very reachy move at the top, before you pull onto the slab. Follow the slab (5.9-) up and right to a sling anchor (replaced 5/2011) in a hollow flake. 5.10a, 70'.
Rappel from here, or continue...
P2: Climb the corner, then angle up right to a white face and corner. Step up the corner to get high pro, then downclimb and traverse right around the arete (crux) onto a face and belay below an overhang. 5.9R, 70'.
P3: Angle up right and climb a notch through an overhang to the GT Ledge. 5.7, 60'.
Standard Rack, extra small cams.
May 19, 2010
The P1 crux isn't necessarily height-sensitive...if you "know the trick".
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 20, 2012
P1 is not r-rated. It's a nice short pitch, one move wonder. It was my first 10 lead at the gunks. Also, it's not height dependent. I am only 62" and I made it just fine.
|By Dan Flynn|
Nov 13, 2013
I found no fixed anchor after p1 -- ended up just going to GT ledge and rapping down over Strictly.
Nov 14, 2013
Dan, I did that first pitch in 2012. The threaded anchor mentioned in the guidebook is indeed gone, but there was a different anchor, I think on a tree, just a little bit left in a shallow corner/gully. My partner had used it before and clued me in to look for it-- I hadn't noticed this anchor just a few weeks before when I did Gaston, and so I had continued to the top of the cliff on Gaston when I never found the anchor.
So take this with a grain of salt, this info is from last year, but there was an anchor there at that time if you looked around.