2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Once the farthest right line at the Riviera...now this is probably 4th or 5th route from the right. Identify a high bolt that works up and right over some blocky stuff, then up a slab with horizontal cracks, then finishes up a small headwall onto some choss at the top. High quality granite and nice, easy gear placements make this one safe and well bolted in my opinion.
Eds. Actually, there is another natural line to the left of this route...and now even bolted lines, too.
Five widely spaced bolts to a good anchor that could easily be reached for toproping. A few small cams and midsize nuts will protect the runouts here. Good lead for the 5.7 or so leader who is just starting to place gear.
Eds. There are now 2 Metolius rap hangers each with 2 links for the anchors.
I only counted 4 bolts, but there are many places for gear in between the bolts. A decent line for a new leader as the bolts are easily supplemented with gear (#0.75 Camalot and smaller). Anchor at top does not have any rap rings placed on it so watch your rope on this one, or just walk off to the right and walk the 50' to the ground.
There's definitely 5 bolts on the route, all right where you'd want them. This route is a fun romp up a slab, with beautiful moves. I'd give it two or three stars, personally, but then I just love runout granite slab routes. It was a hoot!
A fun beginner practice lead with some variety to make you think. You can either run it out a bit between bolts or have fun practicing placing pro inbetween,which is probably a good idea anyways in a couple of spots. Nice play to go if short on time as approach is easy as well.
This is a nice little route. A great warmup for other climbs at the Riv. I gave it a 5.7, but it's just barely so. It could just as easily get a 5.6. There is a nice variety of moves, and they are all very well protected. I agree with the concensus that a few pieces of gear are helpful if you're not too confident.
Just went there today, and there are two new bolted routes to the right of Splash. I was there a month ago, and they were not there. So, no longer is Splash the furthermost route to the right. The starts are a little tricky, especially if you stay to the right of the bolt on the route to the right of Splash. If I were to guess, I would say a few 5.9 moves then gets easier on the way up.
I checked the anchor today. The bolts cannot be tightened, because they are Rawls and will not tighten. They looked good other than the hangers being loose. I added a 3rd bolt to give everyone warm fuzzy feelings. Especially since these are popular beginner routes.
By John Tex From: My camper, CO Mar 19, 2013 rating: 5.64c14V12S 4b
3rd route from the right now, the second being Infestation (5.9) and Monte Carlo (5.6). Three bolts at the anchors as Greg said that I can confirm worked very well and can be used for a toprope safely.
5 bolts on the way to the anchors with a bit of a runout between the second and the third. Done without a rack pretty safely for a confident climber as the climbing between the runout is easy, much like Chouette to the left.
By Jay Eggleston From: Littleton Oct 30, 2013 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
Can be done on gear relatively safely. I clipped two bolts, the first and the last, and could have probably done without either.
By Jim Fox From: Westminster, CO Aug 16, 2014 rating: 5.64c14V12S 4b
Lead this today. Placed a few pieces of gear for peace of mind but could have done with less (or none). Kind of a weird route but actually pretty fun. I bypassed the "choss" at the top by traversing right on a nice ledge and finishing on the last 2 bolts of Infestation. Fair amount of rope drag but a nicer finish and lowered off Mussey hooks (so we could toprope Infestation).
Not a bad route & long (used almost all of our 60m rope to do it and lower). I'd rate it 5.6 . Really didn't seem like 5.7 to me.