Spite and Malice 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | D. Singer, D. Miller |
| Season: | Fall, Winter, Spring |
| Submitted By: | JJ Schlick on Aug 18, 2006 |
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Nick Rhoads on Spite and Malice.
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Description Spite and Malice has everything a route needs to be a classic. A heads up start on suspect rock leads you to an obtuse stem box. Work your way up the left finger crack until you can do a couple traverse moves (5.10) into the right hand finger crack. Keep moving up this crack as it grows ever steeper! Look for face hold relief, but be ready to jam your heart out... A great long pitch that delivers a full body workout.
Location Middle left wall.
Protection Doubles from #1 TCU through #4, triples of #.75 and #2 Camalots, runners.
70M rope
switching cracks, the technical crux
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pump clock running...
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****
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closing in on the anchors, and the choss band....
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| Comments on Spite and Malice |
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By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 23, 2006
| You mentioned this somewhere else, but just to reinforce it, 1 60m rope does NOT get you to the ground. You can still do this climb with 1 rope, but be careful and you'll have to downclimb the first 15 ft of the climb. |
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.10d
| Bring extra #0.75 and #1 camalots. I had three number ones and wished I had one more. A safe bet would be double set from blue tcu through #2 camalots with three #0.75 and four #1. |
By Joel Hickok
Mar 4, 2012
rating: 5.10+
| This was the first route I climbed at the Waterfall wall and it was a hard warm up coming here off the couch. Maybe I'll be able to downgrade my 5.11- opinion after coming back in better shape or climbing here again!
I needed more 1.5"-2" sized gear.
70m rope had me on the ground with slack to spare.
Excellent climb! |
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