Spite and Malice
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Nick Rhoads on Spite and Malice.
Spite and Malice has everything a route needs to be a classic. A heads up start on suspect rock leads you to an obtuse stem box. Work your way up the left finger crack until you can do a couple traverse moves (5.10) into the right hand finger crack. Keep moving up this crack as it grows ever steeper! Look for face hold relief, but be ready to jam your heart out... A great long pitch that delivers a full body workout.
Middle left wall.
Doubles from #1 TCU through #4, triples of #.75 and #2 Camalots, runners.
switching cracks, the technical crux
pump clock running...
closing in on the anchors, and the choss band....
|Comments on Spite and Malice
|By Kole DeCou|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 23, 2006
You mentioned this somewhere else, but just to reinforce it, 1 60m rope does NOT get you to the ground. You can still do this climb with 1 rope, but be careful and you'll have to downclimb the first 15 ft of the climb.
|By Tavis Ricksecker|
From: Bishop, ca
Apr 21, 2008
Bring extra #0.75 and #1 camalots. I had three number ones and wished I had one more. A safe bet would be double set from blue tcu through #2 camalots with three #0.75 and four #1.
|By Joel Hickok|
Mar 4, 2012
This was the first route I climbed at the Waterfall wall and it was a hard warm up coming here off the couch. Maybe I'll be able to downgrade my 5.11- opinion after coming back in better shape or climbing here again!
I needed more 1.5"-2" sized gear.
70m rope had me on the ground with slack to spare.