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Val Rienza
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Spitagoras 

Spitagoras 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

   
Type: Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1500', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Toni Obojes, Othmar Zingerle, 1997
Season: summer
Page Views: 95
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Dec 21, 2012
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Description 

The crux is the first pitch where four bolts in about 100' protect the climbing. Most of the route is of moderate(5.6-5.8) grade. Most pitches are 150'-165'(45m-50m) long.

The key to the route is pitch seven where one traverses right for 50-100' to a break in the right wall then climbs up to a belay from there.

Pitch eight, while very easy, is a continuation of that traverse up and right past two bolts to gain the striking arete.

Pitch nine is the best pitch on the route climbing straight up the steep arete for 150' on huge holds past two bolts(5.7-5.8).


Location 

Hike up the dirt road from Lago di Landro toward the Rifugio Locatelli for about one hour. A 1500' formation with a striking arete in it's upper half will come into view on the right. Leave the road and head up a steep climber's trail to the base of the wall. Head up and left(east) along the base of the wall for about 200 feet to the start of the climb.

From the top of the climb head up and east(left) toward the base of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. After about 20 minutes or so a herder's residence/barn will be seen, From the residence/barn take a path north back down into the valley.


Protection 

There are between two and four bolts per pitch. A rack of cams from small to 3" supplement the fixed gear. All belays have two bolts, but are not fixed for rappel. It would be very difficult to retreat from this climb after pitch 6.



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