Spit Fires and Funeral Parlours 5.9- R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | R. Berk, Dave Hart, Ryan Nassimbene, '87 |
| Submitted By: | Mark Roth on Dec 11, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: The start. Where's my belayer? Photo: Roth (who sh...
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Description The hardest part is not dying before you get decent gear in.... You should always be suspicious of climbs with Funeral in the title. The moves are not too hard, the gear is just a bit thin at the start. When you finally get a bomber nut, the difficulties are almost over.
Location This is just right of Chunky Monkey (just had a pint last night, mmmm). Climb the dirty, thin face to a right-facing flake, and then angle up left on a sloping ledge to join Chunky Monkey. Use its last 2 or 3 bolts and anchor.
Protection Some small gear (RP or micro cam), a mid-sized nut, a green C4 and some quickdraws.
At the first gear. The crux is getting to this po...
| Dave found you can get pink and red tricams to fit...
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| Comments on Spit Fires and Funeral Parlours |
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By Jay Eggleston From: Littleton Dec 11, 2009 rating: 5.9- R
| The start is definitely a little spicy. The first gear is 15' up, and there is a back breaking boulder below the initial moves. Use Caution. |
By Dave Clark 5.10 From: Golden, CO Mar 12, 2012 rating: 5.9- R
| Leo added the photo showing where I found good tri-cam placement in the horizontal crack. Now you might only fall 12 ft before breaking your back on the boulder. I opted to lead Chunky Monkey and TR Spit Fires. The first clip on Chunky is a bit high also, but the landing is better and there's the stick-clip option. |
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