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Spit Fires and Funeral Parlours 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: R. Berk, Dave Hart, Ryan Nassimbene, '87
Page Views: 205
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Dec 11, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: The start.
Where's my belayer?
Photo: Roth (who sh...
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The hardest part is not dying before you get decent gear in.... You should always be suspicious of climbs with Funeral in the title. The moves are not too hard, the gear is just a bit thin at the start. When you finally get a bomber nut, the difficulties are almost over.


Location 

This is just right of Chunky Monkey (just had a pint last night, mmmm). Climb the dirty, thin face to a right-facing flake, and then angle up left on a sloping ledge to join Chunky Monkey. Use its last 2 or 3 bolts and anchor.


Protection 

Some small gear (RP or micro cam), a mid-sized nut, a green C4 and some quickdraws.



Photos of Spit Fires and Funeral Parlours Slideshow Add Photo
At the first gear.  The crux is getting to this point. <br />Photo: Roth.
At the first gear. The crux is getting to this po...
Dave found you can get pink and red tricams to fit that horizontal at the level of his left hand in this photo.
Dave found you can get pink and red tricams to fit...
Comments on Spit Fires and Funeral Parlours Add Comment
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Dec 11, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c R

The start is definitely a little spicy. The first gear is 15' up, and there is a back breaking boulder below the initial moves. Use Caution.

By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Mar 12, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c R

Leo added the photo showing where I found good tri-cam placement in the horizontal crack. Now you might only fall 12 ft before breaking your back on the boulder. I opted to lead Chunky Monkey and TR Spit Fires. The first clip on Chunky is a bit high also, but the landing is better and there's the stick-clip option.