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Routes in Windy Point
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Into the Void S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Spirit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 160 ft (48 m) |
| FA: | Alan Nelson, Richard Wright |
| Page Views: | 1,334 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Alan Nelson on Jul 22, 2002 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Voluntary Nesting Closure Feb. 15 - July 31, 2015
Details
Per Bryan Gall: there is a voluntary seasonal falcon closure notice for Windy Point from February 15 - July 31. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The forest service has been very cooperative in establishing this plan; please be responsible.
Description
Spirit offers improbability, adventure, exposure, and a massive pump in a safe sportclimbing package. The approach has some logistical complexity, but once you're parked on the stance below the pitch, you're in for an incredible ride.
Approach: From the top of Windy Point, scramble down the ramp to the south to the downhill side of the next to last tree before spilling into the abyss. Tie off the tree with a short (10m) chunk of rope and rap down over the side to a narrow ledge with a three-bolt anchor. From this anchor, it is a full 50m (plus rope stretch) rappel to the anchor below the pitch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope! The first half of the rappel is straight down the vertical wall. Then you cross the overhanging arete and quickly find yourself hanging forty feet away from the wall in space. A slab comes back out to meet you just as you hit the knot. You should be able to kick off the wall and swing in to get the anchor. It may be possible to go all the way from the tree to the anchor below the pitch with a 60m rope. It's another 40m to the base of the wall (toproped at loose 5.9, unequipped).
Climb: Use a separate rope to lead back out. Four bolts run up the slab to the base of the overhanging arete. Amazingly, a crack of sorts heads left up the arete. Follow this out into space past six clips until it runs out. A big reach out right and a touchy mantle deposit you on the vertical wall. Eight more clips run up 5.10 and 5.11 face to the top anchor. You'll be stretching a 50m rope by the time you get there.
For the adventurous developer: A line up the middle of the overhang left of the arete remains to be equipped. This will top out at the lip between the overhang and the ramp if you can piece it together. Another variant will move left and up where Spirit breaks right off the arete. This will chase flakes up the overhanging arete all the way to the outside corner of the ramp on top. Fire up the drills!
Approach: From the top of Windy Point, scramble down the ramp to the south to the downhill side of the next to last tree before spilling into the abyss. Tie off the tree with a short (10m) chunk of rope and rap down over the side to a narrow ledge with a three-bolt anchor. From this anchor, it is a full 50m (plus rope stretch) rappel to the anchor below the pitch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope! The first half of the rappel is straight down the vertical wall. Then you cross the overhanging arete and quickly find yourself hanging forty feet away from the wall in space. A slab comes back out to meet you just as you hit the knot. You should be able to kick off the wall and swing in to get the anchor. It may be possible to go all the way from the tree to the anchor below the pitch with a 60m rope. It's another 40m to the base of the wall (toproped at loose 5.9, unequipped).
Climb: Use a separate rope to lead back out. Four bolts run up the slab to the base of the overhanging arete. Amazingly, a crack of sorts heads left up the arete. Follow this out into space past six clips until it runs out. A big reach out right and a touchy mantle deposit you on the vertical wall. Eight more clips run up 5.10 and 5.11 face to the top anchor. You'll be stretching a 50m rope by the time you get there.
For the adventurous developer: A line up the middle of the overhang left of the arete remains to be equipped. This will top out at the lip between the overhang and the ramp if you can piece it together. Another variant will move left and up where Spirit breaks right off the arete. This will chase flakes up the overhanging arete all the way to the outside corner of the ramp on top. Fire up the drills!
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