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Indigenous Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
An Aztec Nightmare T 
Begginer's Route T 
Comfortably Numb T 
Earth and Sky T 
Gloaming, The T 
Hanta Yo T 
Islands T 
Lost Heroes T 
Man Eater T 
Midnight Direct T 
Midnight Special T 
Onslaught T 
Orthanc T 
Pirates of Longstack T 
Raven Song T 
Rawhide T 
Relic T 
Sacred Fire T 
Spirit Guide T 
Still Gettin' Booty T,S 
Stroke, The T 
Strychnine T 
Suicide Wall T 
Sweat Lodge T 
Tardis T 
Terror Crack T 
Toltec Dream T 
Velvet Underground T,S 
Way of the Peaceful Warrior T 
Wayback Machine, The T 

Spirit Guide 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Loran Smith and Joshua Corbett September 14, 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 738
Submitted By: EDGE on Sep 14, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Over the roof.


From the pine tree belay ledge located 20' above the base trail (same start as for "Rawhide"), step right to a left facing flake and climb strait up through several tiers of steep slab separated by lower angled ledges. After 45', pull the 2' roof on big horizontals and continue straight up then step slightly right onto "Merrymeeting Ledge"' the large tree covered ledge that cuts across the left end. Follow the upper section of "Rawhide" to the belay trees and rap from the anchors located climber's left.


Just left of "Tardis" is a left leaning flake beginning on the right side of a belay ledge located above a 5" diameter pine tree 20' above the base trail. Rappel from the anchors above "Earth and Sky."


Standard rack to 2" cams.

Photos of Spirit Guide Slideshow Add Photo
At the crux. <br />Photo by Loran
At the crux. Photo by Loran
Joshua under the roof move.
Joshua under the roof move.
Final moves. <br />Photo by Loran
Final moves. Photo by Loran
Me on the start. <br />Photo by Loran Smith
Me on the start. Photo by Loran Smith
Lincoln Tetherly just above the roof on Spirit Guide.
Lincoln Tetherly just above the roof on Spirit Gui...
The jug haul.
The jug haul.
Lincoln at the overhang.
Lincoln at the overhang.
Jon Garlough on a calendar Winter ascent of "Spirit Guide" in decidedly unwinter-like conditions.  Photo by Joshua Corbett.
Jon Garlough on a calendar Winter ascent of "...

Comments on Spirit Guide Add Comment
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By chinos
Sep 29, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

This and Coyote Rain could be the best beginner routes on the cliff. The climbing is fun, the holds are big, and it has plenty of gear.
By Dan Felix
May 19, 2013

Watch out for poison ivy at the belay ledge at the bottom, and in the horizontal about 8-10' below the roof. The poison ivy in that horizontal stretches across several routes.