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Spire Rock

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King (West Face) 
Queen 
Queen (Southeast Corner) 
Queen (Southside) 

Spire Rock  


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Location: 45.95308, -112.28997 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,690
Administrators: grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aaron Bugh on Jun 18, 2013
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Description 

Probably one of the most popular climbing areas near Butte and only about an hour an a half away from Bozeman, this area offers a wide variety of climbing options. Also commonly called Pipestone this are houses some multipitch on King, some good crack and offwidth climbing on Queen with some easy to set up top roping, and a good amount of bouldering starting to be established within a five minutes walk of the base of the Queen. Very short approaches and great climbing make this area decently popular.

Getting There 

Take the Pipestone exit #241 off of I-90 and follow the dirt road toward Delmo Lake. About four miles from the freeway it is easy to spot the King on the top of the hill. There is a large BLM parking lot with a restroom right before the turn to the climbs. Make a right that obviously heads toward the crag, and you can either park in a field on the right hand side of the road a short way in or follow the road up and left to a small parking lot that is practically at the base of the Queen.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.3 miles from here

26 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',4],['5.8',4],['5.9',3],['5.10',6],['5.11',3],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Spire Rock:
Beginner's Lead   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 40'   Queen (Southeast Corner)
Shoulder Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Queen
Automatic Pilot    5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   Queen (Southeast Corner)
Dream Weaver   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Queen
Cruise Control   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Queen (Southeast Corner)
The Fault   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Queen
Browse More Classics in Spire Rock

Featured Route For Spire Rock
Topo for dreamweaver.

Dream Weaver 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  MT : Spire Rock : Queen
A short but very fun crack that arches up and right through the middle of a beautiful red face. Just begging to be climbed this route has good movement and takes even better gear. Set a gear anchor at the top or top out and scramble back down the back side....[more]   Browse More Classics in MT

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