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Spire One

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Spire 1 Reppy Variation T 
Spire One East Chimney  T 

Spire One Rock Climbing 


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Location: 43.84878, -103.53499 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,135
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 25, 2002
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Travis on the summit of Spire 1, AJ and Brian at t...

Description 

Spire One is the most west of the numbered spires. It has a very distinctive shape, and can be identified by its three blocks, each one progressively smaller as they get higher. The pitches on this generally leave belays at each block because they are great ledges. Bring two ropes for a rappel from a fixed anchor.

Getting There 

Follow trail #4 to the north from the Cathedral Spires parking lot. When the trail junctions before the spires, do not take the climber's trail off to the right, but rather, continue up the hill to the left of the spires. Go around the back side and locate the uniquely shaped 3-blocked spire. It is the closest large spire to the trail.

Climbing Season

For the Cathedral Spires area.

Weather station 5.1 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Spire One

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Spire One:
Spire 1 Reppy Variation   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 215'   
Spire One East Chimney    5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Spire One

Featured Route For Spire One
Rock Climbing Photo: Brenda at the base of the chimney ready for Pitch ...

Spire One East Chimney 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  SD : Custer State Park : ... : Spire One
This route takes the squeeze chimney (see photo) on the east side of Spire 1 all the way up to about ten feet below the big ledge with the bolts for the first belay. The remaining pitches follow the standard path around the ledges and back again as follows:Pitch 1: 110 feet, narrow chimney (5.7+) -- The chimney has great crystals/friction for climbing, but squeezes you very tight about 40 feet up and then it's a real grunt from there for the next 30 feet. I walked up a big #5 camalot fo...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Photos of Spire One Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken from the parking lot.
Taken from the parking lot.
Rock Climbing Photo: Three ugly dudes on top of Spire 1, taken from spi...
Three ugly dudes on top of Spire 1, taken from spi...
Rock Climbing Photo: The cool cat councilman rapping off Spire 1.
The cool cat councilman rapping off Spire 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Scenic Photo from 2nd belay station on Spire One
Scenic Photo from 2nd belay station on Spire One
Rock Climbing Photo: Spire One from Approach Trail
BETA PHOTO: Spire One from Approach Trail
Rock Climbing Photo: Spire One through a small gap in the Picket Fence.
Spire One through a small gap in the Picket Fence.

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