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Spire One

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Spire 1 Reppy Variation T 
Spire One East Chimney  T 

Spire One  


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 25, 2002
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Description 

Spire One is the most west of the numbered spires. It has a very distinctive shape, and can be identified by its three blocks, each one progressively smaller as they get higher. The pitches on this generally leave belays at each block because they are great ledges. Bring two ropes for a rappel from a fixed anchor.

Getting There 

Follow trail #4 to the north from the Cathedral Spires parking lot. When the trail junctions before the spires, do not take the climber's trail off to the right, but rather, continue up the hill to the left of the spires. Go around the back side and locate the uniquely shaped 3-blocked spire. It is the closest large spire to the trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.0 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Spire One:
Spire One East Chimney    5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Spire 1 Reppy Variation   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 215'   
Browse More Classics in Spire One

Featured Route For Spire One
While battling numb hands and 40-50 mph winds, Angela finds her way up the last crack of the first pitch.

Spire 1 Reppy Variation 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  SD : Custer State Park : ... : Spire One
Start on the North East corner following the crack system up right and then step left to a second crack system up and to a sloping ramp. Follow the ramp up and right to a third crack and a pin. A few moves up the crack and you are in the clear. Climb up the large bolts and chains and belay. This pitch can be a little wiggy (at least it was for me) but the pro is all there.The second pitch traverses 180 degrees around the spire to the right (facing the rock). Just follow the obvoius horrizonta...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Photos of Spire One Slideshow Add Photo
Travis on the summit of Spire 1, AJ and Brian at the belay station.  Taken from Spire 4.
Travis on the summit of Spire 1, AJ and Brian at t...
Spire One from Approach Trail
BETA PHOTO: Spire One from Approach Trail
Spire One through a small gap in the Picket Fence.
Spire One through a small gap in the Picket Fence.
Scenic Photo from 2nd belay station on Spire One
Scenic Photo from 2nd belay station on Spire One
Three ugly dudes on top of Spire 1, taken from spire 4.
Three ugly dudes on top of Spire 1, taken from spi...
The cool cat councilman rapping off Spire 1.
The cool cat councilman rapping off Spire 1.

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