Spire One is the most west of the numbered spires. It has a very distinctive shape, and can be identified by its three blocks, each one progressively smaller as they get higher. The pitches on this generally leave belays at each block because they are great ledges. Bring two ropes for a rappel from a fixed anchor.
Follow trail #4 to the north from the Cathedral Spires parking lot. When the trail junctions before the spires, do not take the climber's trail off to the right, but rather, continue up the hill to the left of the spires. Go around the back side and locate the uniquely shaped 3-blocked spire. It is the closest large spire to the trail.
Browse More Classics in Spire One
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Spire One:
Spire One East Chimney 5.7+ Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet
Spire 1 Reppy Variation 5.7+ Trad, 4 pitches, 215 feet
Featured Route For Spire One
Spire One East Chimney 5.7+ SD : Custer State Park : ... : Spire One
This route takes the squeeze chimney (see photo) on the east side of Spire 1 all the way up to about ten feet below the big ledge with the bolts for the first belay. The remaining pitches follow the standard path around the ledges and back again as follows:Pitch 1: 110 feet, narrow chimney (5.7+) -- The chimney has great crystals/friction for climbing, but squeezes you very tight about 40 feet up and then it's a real grunt from there for the next 30 feet. I walked up a big #5 camalot fo...[more] Browse More Classics in SD