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Spire Four
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Select Route:
Great Northwest Dihedral, The 
Hang a Right at Fourth Avenue 
Kamps/Goldstone Route 
Little Lark Crack 
South Tower Conn Route 
Sprire Four 
two EX squared 
West Gruesome 

Spire Four 


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Page Views: 22,049. Good page? (1 like)   
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jul 9, 2002

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Looking down on unknown climbers finishing East Gr...

Description 

Spire Four is the highest summit in the Cathedral Spires, and probably the most popular formation in the group. The view is spectacular, the rock is fantastic, the route unique, and the climbing superb. If you climb only one of the Cathedral Spires, this is the one to do.


Getting There 

Hike the Cathedral Spires trail around to the backside of the spires. Hike up the Gully between Spires 3 and 4. A short stretch of 4th class or possibly low 5th class leads to a high saddle between the spires - rope up if you feel uncomfortable.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Spire Four:
Sprire Four   5.4     Trad, 2 pitches, 210 feet   
The Great Northwest Dihedral   5.6     Trad, 4 pitches, 280 feet   
West Gruesome   5.6     Trad, 2 pitches   
South Tower Conn Route   5.9     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   
Hang a Right at Fourth Avenue   5.10b     Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet   
two EX squared   5.12a     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 360 feet, Grade IV   
Browse More Classics in Spire Four

Featured Route For Spire Four
Hang a Right at 4th Ave

Hang a Right at Fourth Avenue 5.10b  SD : Custer State Park : ... : Spire Four
Walk up the four - five gully as if you are going to Eyetooth. When you get with in view of Spire Four you will see a small roof about half way up on the south/southeast side. Climb a series of cracks and flakes to the small roof. At the roof climb out right to a hanging belay with chain anchors. Hence the name "Hang a Right at Fourth Avenue". From the anchor move to the right and catch the small seam that continues to grow into a larger crack as it goes up. Follow this to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in SD


Photos of Spire Four Slideshow Add Photo
Probably a common scene for non-locals. Pulling out the Piana maps every 20 minutes to try to figure out what gulley we were in.

Probably a common scene for non-locals. Pulling o...

Climbers on Spire Four - taken from Spire Three.

Climbers on Spire Four - taken from Spire Three.

From Spire 5. "Hang a Right" is on the left, what's the big chimney on the right?

From Spire 5. "Hang a Right" is on the left, what'...

Greetings from the Black Hills!

Greetings from the Black Hills!

Spire 4 from top of East Gruesome. South Tower on the left. See the climbers?

Spire 4 from top of East Gruesome. South Tower on ...


Comments on Spire Four Add Comment
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By Eric Krantz
From: Black Hills
Aug 31, 2004

Climbed the chimney system that contains Hang a Right at 4th Ave. I wasn't on the Hang a Right crack, I stayed in the back of the chimney, and crawled into the large flake on the left to set an anchor in the chockstones that have been slung sometime in the past. Went out the opposite side of the flake (away from Hang a Right, up the South Tower side) up a crack that petered out after maybe 40 feet. There was no protection past this. Climbed the big juggy face for maybe 40 feet before stepping back across to Spire 4. It was very loose in places (especially the 2nd pitch face). Beware the desk-sized wobbly stone halfway up the crack in the 2nd pitch. I have to admit I was lost. The climb was fun but the runout was loose, and I couldn't protect my 2nd after the crack ended (the 2nd pitch was a sideways horseshoe).