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Spire Four

Select Route:
East Gruesome (Laptad Route) T 
Great Northwest Dihedral, The T 
Hang a Right at Fourth Avenue T 
improbability drive T 
Kamps/Goldstone Route T 
Little Lark Crack T 
South Tower Conn Route T,S 
Sprire Four T 
two EX squared T,S 
West Gruesome T 

Spire Four  

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jul 9, 2002
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Spire Four is the highest summit in the Cathedral Spires, and probably the most popular formation in the group. The view is spectacular, the rock is fantastic, the route unique, and the climbing superb. If you climb only one of the Cathedral Spires, this is the one to do.

Getting There 

Hike the Cathedral Spires trail around to the backside of the spires. Hike up the Gully between Spires 3 and 4. A short stretch of 4th class or possibly low 5th class leads to a high saddle between the spires - rope up if you feel uncomfortable.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.0 miles from here

10 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Spire Four:
Sprire Four   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   
West Gruesome   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches   
The Great Northwest Dihedral   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 280'   
South Tower Conn Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   
Hang a Right at Fourth Avenue   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   
two EX squared   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 360'   
Browse More Classics in Spire Four

Featured Route For Spire Four
Angela finishing pitch one by squeezing through the wormhole.

Sprire Four 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c  SD : Custer State Park : ... : Spire Four
Your first decision is HOW to get to the climb! Start off by going down the Cathedral Spires trail . . . (Option #1 The short way) go past the climbers spur till you are directly North of Spire 4. Approach the 3/4 gully from the N side of the spires by bushwacking up the hill. Climb 4th class wall to the 3/4 saddle. (Option #2 Fraggle Rock way) take the climbers spur (south of the spires)to the 3/4 gully, head up thru Fraggle Rock making some simple class 5 moves every now and agai...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Photos of Spire Four Slideshow Add Photo
Probably a common scene for non-locals.  Pulling out the Piana maps every 20 minutes to try to figure out what gulley we were in.
Probably a common scene for non-locals. Pulling o...
Climbers on Spire Four - taken from Spire Three.
Climbers on Spire Four - taken from Spire Three.
Looking down on unknown climbers finishing East Gruesome from the top of South Tower.
Looking down on unknown climbers finishing East Gr...
Spire 4 from top of East Gruesome. South Tower on the left. See the climbers?
Spire 4 from top of East Gruesome. South Tower on ...
From Spire 5. "Hang a Right" is on the left, what's the big chimney on the right?
From Spire 5. "Hang a Right" is on the l...
Halfway out of the wormhole
Halfway out of the wormhole

Comments on Spire Four Add Comment
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By Eric Krantz
From: Black Hills
Aug 31, 2004
Climbed the chimney system that contains Hang a Right at 4th Ave. I wasn't on the Hang a Right crack, I stayed in the back of the chimney, and crawled into the large flake on the left to set an anchor in the chockstones that have been slung sometime in the past. Went out the opposite side of the flake (away from Hang a Right, up the South Tower side) up a crack that petered out after maybe 40 feet. There was no protection past this. Climbed the big juggy face for maybe 40 feet before stepping back across to Spire 4. It was very loose in places (especially the 2nd pitch face). Beware the desk-sized wobbly stone halfway up the crack in the 2nd pitch. I have to admit I was lost. The climb was fun but the runout was loose, and I couldn't protect my 2nd after the crack ended (the 2nd pitch was a sideways horseshoe).