Start on the North East corner following the crack system up right and then step left to a second crack system up and to a sloping ramp. Follow the ramp up and right to a third crack and a pin. A few moves up the crack and you are in the clear. Climb up the large bolts and chains and belay. This pitch can be a little wiggy (at least it was for me) but the pro is all there.The second pitch traverses 180 degrees around the spire to the right (facing the rock). Just follow the obvoius horrizontal. Belay at the flake. The third pitch goes up the flake / block then up left to the horrizontal crack below the summit block. Follow this 180 degrees back around to the left and the belay bolts. A quick scramble leads to the top of the summit block.Two Double rope rappels will lead you back to the base at your starting point.
Standard trad Rack - Set of Stoppers, cams, tcu's ...
While battling numb hands and 40-50 mph winds, Ang...
|By Tyson S Arp|
Sep 6, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Just a couple of points: First, there is no anchor on the summit itself--one must downclimb the final summit block to reach the first rappel anchor. Don't worry--it's not that hard. Second, the first rappel can be done with a single rope, but the second rappel requires two. On the second rappel, throw your rope towards Spire Two.
More photos and stories of climbing Spire One here.