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Edd's Place
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Limestone Pirate S 
Spiral Staircase S 

Spiral Staircase 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Elison
Page Views: 1,071
Submitted By: Skip Harper on May 6, 2010

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climbing out of the cruxy lower section and into t...

Description 

Spiral Staircase: 10a. Approx 90’ The bottom 2/3rds of the route is overhanging, so the first person to rappel should clip the rappel rope into several bolts to stay close to the wall on the way down. Otherwise, you may find yourself hanging 6-7 feet away from the wall at the end of your rope. If this occurs, there is no escape unless you are extremely inventive and/or happen to be carrying some form of ascending device (tieblock, etc.) - even then it’s difficult at best. A fall into the water below is unthinkable. The route is full of pockets, edges, and frequent inventive moves. You can either climb into the cave and take the ‘spiral staircase’ back out - or take it ‘straight on’ which might increase the grade by one letter. The cave is large enough to go ’off rope’ and do some ’exploring’ or bouldering on unusual, very colorful flowstone (photo #5) if you‘re so inclined. A very unique experience you won't soon forget.

Location 

Edd's Place

Protection 

Titanium Tortuga bolts: 2 in the top anchor, 12 on the route, 2 in the bottom anchor. As you approach the bottom anchor on rappel, clip your lead rope to the first bolt to preclude a factor-two fall onto the belay.


Photos of Spiral Staircase Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hilary at the belay on Spiral Staircase. If surf i...
Hilary at the belay on Spiral Staircase. If surf i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping down to bottom anchors.
Rapping down to bottom anchors.
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping in to bottom anchors.  Note the two Tortu...
Clipping in to bottom anchors. Note the two Tortu...
Rock Climbing Photo: The interior of the large cave.
The interior of the large cave.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hilary pulling to the top of Spiral Staircase
Hilary pulling to the top of Spiral Staircase

Comments on Spiral Staircase Add Comment
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By Joe Forrester
From: Palo Alto
Mar 18, 2014

Excellent route. It bakes in the sun in the morning.

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