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Edd's Place
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Limestone Pirate 
Spiral Staircase 

Spiral Staircase 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Elison
Page Views: 761
Submitted By: Skip Harper on May 6, 2010
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climbing out of the cruxy lower section and into t...

Description 

Spiral Staircase: 10a, 2 top anchors, 12 bolts on the route, 2 bottom anchors just above the lip to an undercut near sea level. Approx 90’ (* use a 60 M rope and the ‘stretch’ will easily get you all the way down). Rappel to the bottom anchors (photo #2), clip in (photo #3), pull the rope and climb out (photo #4). The bottom 2/3rds of the route is overhanging, so the ’leader’ should clip at least one anchor below the obvious large cave to stay close to the wall on the way down. Otherwise, you may find yourself hanging 6-7 feet away from the wall at the end of your rope. If this occurs, there is no escape unless you are extremely inventive and/or happen to be carrying some form of ascending device (tieblock, etc.) - even then it’s difficult at best. A fall into the water below is unthinkable. The route is full of pockets, edges, and frequent inventive moves. You can either climb into the cave and take the ‘spiral staircase’ back out - or take it ‘straight on’ which might increase the grade by one. The cave is large enough to go ’off rope’ and do some ’exploring’ or bouldering on unusual, very colorful flowstone (photo #5) if you‘re so inclined. A very unique experience you won't soon forget.


Location 

Edd's Place


Protection 

All titanium Tortuga bolts



Photos of Spiral Staircase Slideshow Add Photo
Hilary at the belay on Spiral Staircase. If surf is high, you get soaked!
Hilary at the belay on Spiral Staircase. If surf i...
Rapping down to bottom anchors.
Rapping down to bottom anchors.
Clipping in to bottom anchors.  Note the two Tortugas beside the older corroding hardware.  Use only the Tortugas!!
Clipping in to bottom anchors. Note the two Tortu...
The interior of the large cave.
The interior of the large cave.
Hilary pulling to the top of Spiral Staircase
Hilary pulling to the top of Spiral Staircase
Comments on Spiral Staircase Add Comment
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By Joe Forrester
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Mar 18, 2014

Excellent route. It bakes in the sun in the morning.