Spiral Staircase  WI4

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Type:  Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  WI4- [details] FA:  Unknown Season:  Winter Submitted By:  Chris Zeller on Dec 31, 1969 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Spiral Staircase as of Jan 12, 2002

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Description 

Spiral Staircase follows the large, wide flow around the corner to the left of the Rigid Designator. The climb is one of the best beginner climbs in the area and therefore is usually well hacked out for most of the season. The climb ascends a slab of 75-80 degree ice to a broad bowl with large trees. This climb is also used to access The Pencil and The Eraser above. Descent: Rappel from fixed slings and rap rings around a large tree at the top of the route. (the same anchor that is used for the toprope).

Ben: Since the route is so hacked out, it's more like WI3- but some variations to the right are in the WI4 range. A mixed start (M5) to Spiral Staircase starts on the left--Dry tool up the overhanging left-angling thin crack up to a large hold, then lean back to get a tool established in the ice of Spiral S and carefully make the strenuous transition.

Protection 

Screws, the ice is sometimes thin so bring a mix of long and short.

Toprope Protection 

There are good anchors on top consisting of several fixed slings and rap rings around a large tree. An additional _10 ft sling and a biner for a backup is a good idea. One rope is sufficient. This climb should be led first.

Photos of Spiral Staircase Slideshow

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Joe walking up the spiral staircase (1/18/04?)	Scott Welsh enjoying the thick ice.	Heading up the hacked on Spiral Staircase (2/23/04...
Chad first time lead on the Spiral. 3 screws, what...	Start of the Spiral Staircase, Feb 2005	ACE on the left side of the Spiral.
Climbing Spiral (2/6/07) - Photo Aaron Shileikis.	Bushwhacking.	Loren on the right side of Spiral Staircase in fat...
BETA PHOTO: Spiral Staircase on February 19, 2008.	Ang, having some fun.	Spiral Staircase - great for a first lead!
Griz on The Staircase on May 5th 2010... outfitted...	3/10/12.