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Unsorted Routes:

Spinney Dan 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,012
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (96)
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Brandon Schirm on Spinney Dan.

Description 

A really fun jug haul, just climb carefully through on easy ground to the very high first bolt. Located on Contest Wall two climbs past Miller Time . Climbs up the moderately steep south face and arete. This route has so many huge holds it felt easy for the grade, especially if one used holds on the arete near the top. Savor those handles!


Protection 

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Possibly protect the 1st bolt runout with small gear?



Photos of Spinney Dan Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Amato scopes out the last clip.
Mike Amato scopes out the last clip.
Here I am showing not such good clipping form towards the top of Spiney Dan.
Here I am showing not such good clipping form towa...
Ashley Gann on Spinney Dan.
Ashley Gann on Spinney Dan.
Comments on Spinney Dan Add Comment
Show which comments
By Shane Z
From: Colorado
Feb 13, 2002

Indeed, this route does have it's fair share of jugs. However, it can be a bit pumpy. Also, the rock above the anchor is very loose!

By Zachary Markis
Mar 29, 2002

Yeah, watch out for the loose rocks at the top--Shane almost dropped it right on my head! Just joking, Bud! One of my all time favorite routes in Shelf!!!

By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Mar 29, 2002

A great warm-up climb, easy jug hauling with a nice pump factor. There is a new bolt at the start to protect the slab also.

By Anonymous Coward
May 5, 2003

I thought this climb was a significant challenge for the grade given. As stated, it's slightly overhung and pumpy, but what makes it really difficult is that all the good feet and hands are greasy from so many ascents.mike.

By Dan Russell
May 5, 2003

I would have to err on the side that it's soft for the grade. Years back, it was my first 5.10. Our guide said .10d at the time, which was definitely soft. Since it is slightly overhung, I think the pump factor exaggerates how difficult it feels for some. But let's keep in mind that it is indeed loaded with jugs, and really not very long if you take away the slab approach to the real climbing.

By Michael Amato
Oct 18, 2004

This route may consist of more jugs than other 10c's at Shelf, but it's also deceivingly steep. I climbed it fast and had a blast; hanging around to contemplate your every move could be your demise :-)

By Tlake
Aug 20, 2007

A new bolt appears to have been placed down low to protect the route below the ledge. Start on the arete itself (or a bit right) instead of climbing the slab directly beneath the route proper.

Great climb on a very pretty section of rock.

By Caleb Phillips
From: Boulder, CO
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Consider extending that first bolt to prevent rope drag.

A couple of the nuts were loose with spinning hangers on this one - they could use a tightening. As others said, a little chossy and polished but totally worth it.

By CHopwood
From: Anchorage, AK
May 28, 2011

For some extra fun, and to get a more accurate rating, stay on the face/bolt line (pockets and crimps) to anchors and off of the easy arete to the right. Loved it!

By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Dec 16, 2013

Very juggy compared to many 10cs at Shelf, but it does kick back on you a bit! Still a must.