|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||MauryB on Oct 20, 2008|
|Comments on Spinnaker||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Jun 24, 2013
|When was this upgraded to 11? This was 10c for years, and definitely is not an 11 by Seneca standards, IMHO.|
By Seth Derr
From: harrisburg, pa
Jan 10, 2014
|Gets 11 in the newer guidebook(s). Can't speak to it's actual difficulty as i've never tried it, but i feel like .10c at Seneca IS 11. Calm down i'm joking.|
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 28, 2014
|"Seneca standards," eh? And here I was thinking the point of the YDS was a universal standard by which to rate the relativity difficulty of routes across the country/world. How mistaken I was.|
Feb 22, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Just climbed this from the Ye Gods belay ledge. What a beautiful climb, with serious exposure. 10+ or 11- is fair grade. Although the bulk of it is bolted, this is not a sport route -- the access routes are all gear, and a substantial bit of gear is needed to get to the first bolt.
A few notes:
-From the ledge, the pitch is close to a full 120ft - a 70m will just barely get you back to the anchors. Building an anchor at the base of the cracks 15 left of the belay would be better than belaying from the bolt anchor.
-You will need at least around 4 pieces to get to the first bolt without any major runouts (about 40 or 50 ft from the belay). There is a solid (looking) fixed pin at about 20-30ft up if climbing from the Ye Gods anchor.
-The bolted section is very well protected by "Seneca standards", but be aware that all are very rusted, pitted, and look to be in quite bad shape.