Wonderful route, super-aesthetic both in rock quality and position on the exposed arete. Very stout climbing for the grade and easy to blow the onsight if you get antsy.
Prominent bolted face/arete above Ye Gods and Candy Corner belay. Climb either of those routes and either belay from the two bolt belay on the ledge or climb up the gully a bit further to establish a trad anchor below the line of bolts up the face/arete which is Spinnaker. Stepping out from the gully make a few committing moves up and right to clip the first bolt on the face.
Depending on where you belay from may want few pieces (.75-2 Camalot) to protect the climbing up to the first bolt. 8ish bolts to shuts. Can rap back to Ye Gods bolted belay with a single 60m rope.
Jun 24, 2013
When was this upgraded to 11? This was 10c for years, and definitely is not an 11 by Seneca standards, IMHO.
|By Seth Derr|
From: harrisburg, pa
Jan 10, 2014
Gets 11 in the newer guidebook(s). Can't speak to it's actual difficulty as i've never tried it, but i feel like .10c at Seneca IS 11. Calm down i'm joking.
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 28, 2014
"Seneca standards," eh? And here I was thinking the point of the YDS was a universal standard by which to rate the relativity difficulty of routes across the country/world. How mistaken I was.
Feb 22, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Just climbed this from the Ye Gods belay ledge. What a beautiful climb, with serious exposure. 10+ or 11- is fair grade. Although the bulk of it is bolted, this is not a sport route -- the access routes are all gear, and a substantial bit of gear is needed to get to the first bolt.
A few notes:
-From the ledge, the pitch is close to a full 120ft - a 70m will just barely get you back to the anchors. Building an anchor at the base of the cracks 15 left of the belay would be better than belaying from the bolt anchor.
-You will need at least around 4 pieces to get to the first bolt without any major runouts (about 40 or 50 ft from the belay). There is a solid (looking) fixed pin at about 20-30ft up if climbing from the Ye Gods anchor.
-The bolted section is very well protected by "Seneca standards", but be aware that all are very rusted, pitted, and look to be in quite bad shape.