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Whine and Bruises T 

Spiney Norman 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Skinner and Wald 1985
Page Views: 800
Submitted By: Paul Heyliger on Jun 23, 2003

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beginning of spiney

Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This fine corner is one line left of Carol's Crack and is most conveniently completed in two short (80') pitches. To start, scramble up and left around the blocks and flakes left of Carol's and belay in the broken area. A moderate (5.8) first pitch takes the crack system that is two cracks left of Carol's, then trends right at about half a rope-length to a belay (this coincides with most of the first pitch of Whine and Bruises and avoids lesser quality rock in the right crack). The crux second pitch takes finger jams, laybacks, and stems up the corner to a fairly distinct crux section near the top. Spiney Norman was orignally graded 12a, partially because of a bit of lichen at the crux. It has cleaned up nicely into another worthwhile outing at 11c.

Protection 

Many small stoppers and large RP's, with a few TCU's and small cams up to #1 Camalot.


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By Neil Kauffman
May 26, 2009

Toproped this great climb a few days ago with the direct start after climbing P1 and P2 of Carols. The direct start is really fun face edges and finger crack, maybe 5.8, would protect well with finger size cams and wasn't too loose. The rest of the crack is superb getting progressively steeper, with one not so easy, but short sequence just below the anchor! Possible to do it as one pitch at 45-50m.
By slim
Administrator
Aug 31, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

superb route with a grand finale. try hopelessly to save some juice for the end!