Spinal Twist 5.12
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12 [details] |
| FA: | Trent Baker |
| Submitted By: | Braxtron on Dec 2, 2007 |
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The start of the business. Josie brailles the cri...
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Description Like the Shepard's Pie we used to choke-down in grade school, this climb has pretty much everything, aside from mystery meat: crimps, pockets, side-pull, heel hook, knee bar, lumpy-tufa, and the cherry on top: it's over-hanging.
Location In the back-left of the first cave you'll encounter walking the trail (Spine Cave). Starts and stays just left of the tufa (spine-looking thing) down low.
Protection You'll need 4 quickdraws to supplement the graciously-provided chain draws. There are 2 chains, but no carabiners, at the top of this climb as of 02/09.
jbak set up for the next move
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The awkward 3rd clip
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Fun movement on this route.
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Good view of most of the route. Andrew Haag climb...
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Angel working "Spinal Twist"
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By Braxtron
From: ...
Dec 16, 2007
| You don't have to knee bar. There's an alternate way to do it that worked better for me (I don't care for knee bar-ing), which involves putting your right foot higher. Hopefully that's ambiguous enough to not give away too much beta. |
By jbak
Jan 20, 2008
rating: 5.12
| Perhaps the best "low 12" sport route in S. Az. This climb really rocks.
Takes 4 draws, then has chain-draws. Perhaps a touch stiff for 12b since the FAist was 6'6" and therefore could do the crux clip from the kneebar. Tyler (who wrote the guide) was over 6' also. The crux chain-draw has a uncinched carabiner which allows it to spin. Next time I'm there I will replace it with a longer, better, properly puttied chain-draw.
Update: crux chaindraw replaced Feb 2008. |
By jbak
Apr 24, 2008
rating: 5.12
| Not sure why you care but...4 bolts, 3 chain-draws, + a poorly placed 2-chain anchor. |
By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 27, 2008
| Ask away Daryl. I am guessing the reason John wrote his comment the way he did is because it is a sport route. Look up, count hangers, rack up. I am sure it just struck John as an odd question for a sport route. So ask away, post routes, put up new routes, post topos, and have fun climbing. Hope to finally meet you at the Beanfest next week. Eric |
By jbak
Dec 5, 2008
rating: 5.12
| Looking back I can see another question hidden inside Daryl's question. He mentions a "handful of loose biners". So I guess it was unclear that a chain-draw generally INCLUDES the biner. Otherwise the chain-draw would not really serve a very useful function. |
By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 9, 2009
| As of 10/08 there are two biners on the chains for lowering. Lowering off and cleaning the first three draws is still difficult, though. |
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 20, 2010
| joe i assume you meant 10/09? |
By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 21, 2010
| Yeah, I meant 10/08/09 (Oct 8th 2009). |
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 1, 2010
| the movement on this route is AMAZING!!1 |
By Ryan F.
From: Tucson, Arizona
Aug 10, 2010
rating: 5.12
| Here's a cool video with a dope beat.
The actual ascension was at a later date......sorry about the swearing. |
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