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d. Harvest Moon to the End
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Spinal Traction 
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Whatever 

Spinal Traction 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b C2

   
Type:  Aid, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b A2 [details]
FA: Ivan Rezucha, 1978
Season: Anytime
Page Views: 597
Submitted By: Drewsef on Feb 21, 2009
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A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Spinal Traction is one of the last routes in the Nears, making it a sweet spot to hang around for an hour or two escaping the crowds, dogs and spray. Locate the crack in the roof and climb up to where it meets the back wall (5.6). Aid out the crack, looking for unique nut placements in the good rock and the occasional micro cam or cam hook. As you near the lip, traverse slightly right as the rock deteriorates slightly (but no worries) and then up the face 20 feet to the pines on occasionally funky placements.
I did this solo lots o' years ago and had a blast but coming around the lip was a little heady.
If you're soloing, you'll have to build your anchor somewhat lower than the start.


Location 

At the end of the Nears. Find a great roof that is framed on the left by a right-facing corner - the roof is about 30 feet off the deck. Look for the thin crack that starts in the left rear of the roof and diagonals out and right (you'll be grinnin' when you see the line!).

Best to lead on one line and trail a second to rap with because the route turns the lip and would be bad form to lower with. Find the pines above and make the short rap from there (may or may not be slings here, be prepared to fix tat or say bye-bye to leavers if needed!).


Protection 

Lots of medium nuts! Plenty of small and large as well, might throw in a few RP's. Tiny and small cams. Cam hooks are nice and a big hook for the face in case that's your flavor. If you're soloing you might want a range of cam sizes to build your anchor down low from the start...then again it could be a nest of small stuff too, depending on how spicy you like it.



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By Will Stat
Oct 21, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b C2+

Might be the biggest roof you'll ever aid